FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
Assuming your has been running without an overheating problem I don't think that requires an overhaul just based the jacket.
Kevin -
Within the last couple of weeks, someone told that they were running higher than 87 octane to keep spark knock at bay...... if that was Larry, I can see why.
The 3.0L blocks that I have seen look that bad around the cooling passages have been very gunked up lower in the jackets.... particularly toward the outboard areas of the jackets, where sediment is more prone to accumulate.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Kevin C
Trail Leader
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6033
Loc: No where in particular
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Quote:
Quote:
Assuming your has been running without an overheating problem I don't think that requires an overhaul just based the jacket.
Kevin -
Within the last couple of weeks, someone told that they were running higher than 87 octane to keep spark knock at bay...... if that was Larry, I can see why.
The 3.0L blocks that I have seen look that bad around the cooling passages have been very gunked up lower in the jackets.... particularly toward the outboard areas of the jackets, where sediment is more prone to accumulate.
Frank
A hot spot will cause preignition but is unlikely to be the cause of detonation. Typically preignition is not easily controlled by changing the octane of the fuel.
I don't see anything suggesting a sever detonation issue. I did notice that the initial timing on the motor has been changed a few times.
Kevin
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87 Dodge
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Wow! Lots o questions!!!
A few answers.
I wasn't using much oil, less than a quart between changes. I had several leaks developing that needed attention. My compression was 155 to 160 evenly distributed. I didn't do a leakdown on all cylinders. I did on the one cylinder that had a funky plug last tune up. It was ok, no leakdown overnight.
I had been running 91+ fuel to limit a bit of spark knock at higher elevations on long hill climbs. I also advanced the timing slightly for more pep from the added octane. With the spark knock came a little higher temps on both temp gauges (OE in the IP and Autometer on the dash). Nothing that was not controlled by the fan thermoswitch and the Taurus fan.
I've been running regular green at a roughly 50/50 mix with distilled water. I've done major flushing on the engine several times. Wasn't really expecting to see as nasty water jackets as I saw.
I had planned on doing an oil pan gasket during all this, should I proceed with that and pull off a main cap and see what the bearings look like?
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Just another idiot...
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StockRaider
Roll Me Over
Reged: 09/23/04
Posts: 4375
Loc: Williamsport PA
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I did a complete overhaul of my friends Diamante 3.0, and unless your willing to drop 800-1200 like he did (still cheaper than a lesser quality rebuilt motor). I would say find a decent JY motor with good compression. I had to have the block hot tanked, honed new rings bearings etc etc. It was a worth while project but in the end, a decent JY unit might of been cheaper. Personally if compression is good, I would clean the jackets with a wire brush from a gun cleaning kit and then when back together remove the thermostat and run a quality flush treatment through it a few times.
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Richard E
1989 Montero - SR coils, SR steering box, 31" Wide track Baja
1989 V6 Auto Raider - SR Rear, LSD Front, Superwinch Hubs, 33" BFG Mud terrain KM2
1987 Mitsubishi Starion 2.6turbo Start of my tuner addiction
1983 Honda XL600R - Supertrapp muffler, EBC Brakes, K270tires
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I'm figuring high and budgeting $1700 for this and I'd prefer to keep my block and heads in their original vehicle. I have access to all the parts and a machine shop that kind of owes me a favor. Not sure if I want to call it on this job, though.
Frank, can you PM or call me with what your offer entails? I am very interested in your insight into the niggles and nuances of this motor.
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Just another idiot...
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Kevin C
Trail Leader
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6033
Loc: No where in particular
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Quote:
Wow! Lots o questions!!!
A few answers.
I wasn't using much oil, less than a quart between changes. I had several leaks developing that needed attention. My compression was 155 to 160 evenly distributed. I didn't do a leakdown on all cylinders. I did on the one cylinder that had a funky plug last tune up. It was ok, no leakdown overnight.
I had been running 91+ fuel to limit a bit of spark knock at higher elevations on long hill climbs. I also advanced the timing slightly for more pep from the added octane. With the spark knock came a little higher temps on both temp gauges (OE in the IP and Autometer on the dash). Nothing that was not controlled by the fan thermoswitch and the Taurus fan.
I've been running regular green at a roughly 50/50 mix with distilled water. I've done major flushing on the engine several times. Wasn't really expecting to see as nasty water jackets as I saw.
I had planned on doing an oil pan gasket during all this, should I proceed with that and pull off a main cap and see what the bearings look like?
If the bottom end is quite and you don't have any reason to suspect a problem I would leave it alone. The risk of dirt contamination from disassembly causing a problem is pretty high. An oil sample sent to a lab would be a quick way of seeing if you have a problem.
On good running engine that did not get run low on oil or leak coolant into the crankcase while running the bearings should be fine.
Looking at the pattern on the cylinder walls I was pretty sure you had advanced your timing.
Kevin
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87 Dodge
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mxmikie
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 04/12/06
Posts: 1081
Loc: Bouse az
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do the heads and put them on and drive it like you stole it................
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it dosent have to be surrounded by water to be an island
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Well, now I'm torn. I thought it looked horrific, but some of ya'll say not so. As far as I could tell before the bottom end was quiet. The lifters never shut up entirely, so it was hard to differentiate.
What to do, what to do... 
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Just another idiot...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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I watched your oil pressure on the last ride, and I saw no sign of wide tolerances in the mains/rods, so I would inspect the block deck for any pitting/lows with a good straight edge and feelers, clean up the deck with a good scraper and maybe a judicious application of a big flat file to knock of any pulls around the head bolt holes (gently, gently with this - it's kinds rednek), and flatten the heads and do the guides/seals, and lap the valves and call it good. I saw it poot a couple of puffs of oil smoke after an in gear decel on the ride, and it sure looked like stem leakage to me, and also smelled that way. Burnt oil from gone rings smells different from vaporized oil from leaking exhaust guides, and vaporized is what I smelled from yours. You may not have perfect ring seal, but I don't think it's time to yank the motor. New vla's might not be a bad idea, though...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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MontyMcV
Trail Leader
Reged: 06/04/03
Posts: 7046
Loc: Cleve-burg OH USA
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Quote:
Looking at the pattern on the cylinder walls I was pretty sure you had advanced your timing.
Kevin
That simply boggles my pea brain. What do you see in which original pic that tells you this. I need edjumicating...
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Big Truck 2: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 94k, stock for now
Big Truck 1: 95, MT, >Gone<
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 29k miles!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
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