hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I had a puff of oil after extended idling a couple weeks ago. So, instead of just doing valve stem seals, I figured I'd just pull the heads and have them freshened. When I got the DS head off, it looked like dogsh!t set on fire... wanted to puke. Is it as bad as it looks?
In one of the pics I think I can see the egg shape of the cylinder wall that Frank speaks of. Dammit. So, clean it up, redo the heads and rock on? Or do it right, pull it and completely go through it?
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Just another idiot...
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TrailRaider
Wheeler
Reged: 02/26/09
Posts: 131
Loc: Riverside, CA
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All depends on your time to money ratio. Ive always been a big fan of doing things right the 1st time. But nowadays it's the money that holds me back from doing things at all :-)
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'89 Raider V6 auto. SR conversion in process.
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Grasscat
Roll Me Over
Reged: 02/04/05
Posts: 2561
Loc: Livermore, Ca
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Ah man Larry you're in big dodo. Sell it and get a Gen II.5 like us big boys. 
I know I'm no help, but I figure you're smart enough to know what to do. 
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Michael j
TreadLightly! Trainer
Grasscat III, 1994 Gen 2 Five speed, Stock ( for a little while )
GrassCat II, 1998 Gen 2.5 Locked and loaded. Ran off with Hector.
GrassCat I, 1991 Gen 1 Ran off with Justice.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Well, Michael, first of all I'm not a Dodo They're extinct...But, at your age, I can understand if you still remember them.... 
And maybe it's sooo bad that you need to just come put me out of my misery and swap with me.... 
A GenII.5 is on the horizon for wifey. She prefers driving my truck to her 07 CRV with all the bells and accoutrements. I'll have a fleet of Monty's before it's all said and done. I have 10 and 12yo boys that both wants trucks JUST like mine.
Edited by hazy_daze (04/03/10 09:39 PM)
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rxinhed
The Mitsubishi Parts Guy
Reged: 02/21/05
Posts: 5901
Loc: Gerber, CA
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Larry, my children have laid claim to two of the Monteros here; you'd better look out.
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Larry -
That one's on borrowed time. Even if you do the heads, you've got what looks like a fairly well clogged up water jacket area. In the picture of the head, is that a chunk I see missing around the edge of the combustion chamber? If so, the heads are toast if your goal is a good engine.
My offer still stands.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Guns_and_Roses
Wheeler
Reged: 12/29/09
Posts: 162
Loc: Cali
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Quote:
Is it as bad as it looks?
In one of the pics I think I can see the egg shape of the cylinder wall that Frank speaks of. Dammit. So, clean it up, redo the heads and rock on? Or do it right, pull it and completely go through it?
it does look bad to me. i would pull the whole engine and rebuild it proper. it may be better to start with a whole new core engine and replace what you got. either way it will be fun.
:)
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1989 Dodge Raider 3.0 with dented gas tank
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mxmikie
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 04/12/06
Posts: 1081
Loc: Bouse az
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looks like methanol fuel to me the hatch marks look good in the cylinders did you do a leakdown test before you poped the heads ??? i would do the heads and drive it another 200,000 miles
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it dosent have to be surrounded by water to be an island
Edited by mxmikie (04/04/10 08:55 AM)
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Kevin C
Trail Leader
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6033
Loc: No where in particular
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Quote:
looks like methanol fuel to me the hatch marks look good in the cylinders did you do a leakdown test before you poped the heads ??? i would do the heads and drive it another 200,000 miles
I agree that the walls look OK. Unless you measure them its hard to say if they have a problem or not. I can see some wear on the thrust side of the bore, but that does not automatically require a rebuild. What matters is do the rings still seal? What cant be seen is the rings and the ring grooves in the pistons.
As Mikey points out a leakdown test would let you know if there is a problem.
I agree that it looks like a mess, but it will look a lot better after the parts are cleaned up. There is rust in the jacket that indicates the block might need cleaning, but most motors are very tolerant of deposits at the bottom of the jacket. Assuming your has been running without an overheating problem I don't think that requires an overhaul just based the jacket.
If I saw some serious pitting in the deck that prevented the fire ring from sealing or allowed coolant out of the motor or into the oil I would be concerned.
Short summary: You have an oil huffing problem. It could be valve guides and seals or rings and perhaps both.
There is no sure way to tell with the heads off if you have a problem with the rings.
One indicator would be how much oil were you using? I don't see a lot of washing over the tops of the pistons indicating a severe oil problem.
If your valve seals and guides are shot then a top end freshen up should help.
Remember your symptom is a huff of oil after extended idling. Unless you have a more severe problem to solve and assuming your guides and seals are shot, just doing the heads is all you need.
That assumes that the deck cleans up OK and you did not have a sever oil usage problem before hand.
Another question is what are your long term goals? With fresh heads the motor could easily get you a several years of driving. If you plan on keeping the Montero for longer than that once the heads are back on you could do a fresh motor at you leisure.
Kevin
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87 Dodge
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Mudraider
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 12/16/07
Posts: 1354
Loc: Orange Park, FL
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I saw the clogged water passages, what kind of anti-freeze was being used? I don't think I want to use it.
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87 Raider,3.5 soon,, 35's w/ a 4" BL,
bumpers, sliders, OME 2" lift Dakar springs, 98 Air locker, disc brake rear end, Gen 2 front brakes, plh manual hubs,
88 SWB-2.6/5spd, 2" BL, bumpers and sliders, Starion shift knob
89 SWB, V-6 6SPD, OME Shocks, 15X10 w/33's, 2"BL
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
Assuming your has been running without an overheating problem I don't think that requires an overhaul just based the jacket.
Kevin -
Within the last couple of weeks, someone told that they were running higher than 87 octane to keep spark knock at bay...... if that was Larry, I can see why.
The 3.0L blocks that I have seen look that bad around the cooling passages have been very gunked up lower in the jackets.... particularly toward the outboard areas of the jackets, where sediment is more prone to accumulate.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Kevin C
Trail Leader
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6033
Loc: No where in particular
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Quote:
Quote:
Assuming your has been running without an overheating problem I don't think that requires an overhaul just based the jacket.
Kevin -
Within the last couple of weeks, someone told that they were running higher than 87 octane to keep spark knock at bay...... if that was Larry, I can see why.
The 3.0L blocks that I have seen look that bad around the cooling passages have been very gunked up lower in the jackets.... particularly toward the outboard areas of the jackets, where sediment is more prone to accumulate.
Frank
A hot spot will cause preignition but is unlikely to be the cause of detonation. Typically preignition is not easily controlled by changing the octane of the fuel.
I don't see anything suggesting a sever detonation issue. I did notice that the initial timing on the motor has been changed a few times.
Kevin
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87 Dodge
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Wow! Lots o questions!!!
A few answers.
I wasn't using much oil, less than a quart between changes. I had several leaks developing that needed attention. My compression was 155 to 160 evenly distributed. I didn't do a leakdown on all cylinders. I did on the one cylinder that had a funky plug last tune up. It was ok, no leakdown overnight.
I had been running 91+ fuel to limit a bit of spark knock at higher elevations on long hill climbs. I also advanced the timing slightly for more pep from the added octane. With the spark knock came a little higher temps on both temp gauges (OE in the IP and Autometer on the dash). Nothing that was not controlled by the fan thermoswitch and the Taurus fan.
I've been running regular green at a roughly 50/50 mix with distilled water. I've done major flushing on the engine several times. Wasn't really expecting to see as nasty water jackets as I saw.
I had planned on doing an oil pan gasket during all this, should I proceed with that and pull off a main cap and see what the bearings look like?
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Just another idiot...
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StockRaider
Roll Me Over
Reged: 09/23/04
Posts: 4375
Loc: Williamsport PA
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I did a complete overhaul of my friends Diamante 3.0, and unless your willing to drop 800-1200 like he did (still cheaper than a lesser quality rebuilt motor). I would say find a decent JY motor with good compression. I had to have the block hot tanked, honed new rings bearings etc etc. It was a worth while project but in the end, a decent JY unit might of been cheaper. Personally if compression is good, I would clean the jackets with a wire brush from a gun cleaning kit and then when back together remove the thermostat and run a quality flush treatment through it a few times.
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Richard E
1989 Montero - SR coils, SR steering box, 31" Wide track Baja
1989 V6 Auto Raider - SR Rear, LSD Front, Superwinch Hubs, 33" BFG Mud terrain KM2
1987 Mitsubishi Starion 2.6turbo Start of my tuner addiction
1983 Honda XL600R - Supertrapp muffler, EBC Brakes, K270tires
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I'm figuring high and budgeting $1700 for this and I'd prefer to keep my block and heads in their original vehicle. I have access to all the parts and a machine shop that kind of owes me a favor. Not sure if I want to call it on this job, though.
Frank, can you PM or call me with what your offer entails? I am very interested in your insight into the niggles and nuances of this motor.
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Just another idiot...
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Kevin C
Trail Leader
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6033
Loc: No where in particular
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Quote:
Wow! Lots o questions!!!
A few answers.
I wasn't using much oil, less than a quart between changes. I had several leaks developing that needed attention. My compression was 155 to 160 evenly distributed. I didn't do a leakdown on all cylinders. I did on the one cylinder that had a funky plug last tune up. It was ok, no leakdown overnight.
I had been running 91+ fuel to limit a bit of spark knock at higher elevations on long hill climbs. I also advanced the timing slightly for more pep from the added octane. With the spark knock came a little higher temps on both temp gauges (OE in the IP and Autometer on the dash). Nothing that was not controlled by the fan thermoswitch and the Taurus fan.
I've been running regular green at a roughly 50/50 mix with distilled water. I've done major flushing on the engine several times. Wasn't really expecting to see as nasty water jackets as I saw.
I had planned on doing an oil pan gasket during all this, should I proceed with that and pull off a main cap and see what the bearings look like?
If the bottom end is quite and you don't have any reason to suspect a problem I would leave it alone. The risk of dirt contamination from disassembly causing a problem is pretty high. An oil sample sent to a lab would be a quick way of seeing if you have a problem.
On good running engine that did not get run low on oil or leak coolant into the crankcase while running the bearings should be fine.
Looking at the pattern on the cylinder walls I was pretty sure you had advanced your timing.
Kevin
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87 Dodge
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mxmikie
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 04/12/06
Posts: 1081
Loc: Bouse az
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do the heads and put them on and drive it like you stole it................
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it dosent have to be surrounded by water to be an island
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Well, now I'm torn. I thought it looked horrific, but some of ya'll say not so. As far as I could tell before the bottom end was quiet. The lifters never shut up entirely, so it was hard to differentiate.
What to do, what to do... 
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Just another idiot...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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I watched your oil pressure on the last ride, and I saw no sign of wide tolerances in the mains/rods, so I would inspect the block deck for any pitting/lows with a good straight edge and feelers, clean up the deck with a good scraper and maybe a judicious application of a big flat file to knock of any pulls around the head bolt holes (gently, gently with this - it's kinds rednek), and flatten the heads and do the guides/seals, and lap the valves and call it good. I saw it poot a couple of puffs of oil smoke after an in gear decel on the ride, and it sure looked like stem leakage to me, and also smelled that way. Burnt oil from gone rings smells different from vaporized oil from leaking exhaust guides, and vaporized is what I smelled from yours. You may not have perfect ring seal, but I don't think it's time to yank the motor. New vla's might not be a bad idea, though...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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MontyMcV
Trail Leader
Reged: 06/04/03
Posts: 7046
Loc: Cleve-burg OH USA
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Quote:
Looking at the pattern on the cylinder walls I was pretty sure you had advanced your timing.
Kevin
That simply boggles my pea brain. What do you see in which original pic that tells you this. I need edjumicating...
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Big Truck 2: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 94k, stock for now
Big Truck 1: 95, MT, >Gone<
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 29k miles!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
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toyhooter
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 04/17/07
Posts: 60
Loc: Southern, CA
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Thanks for scaring me with the pic's. You know the look that Curley of the Three Stooges would get when he saw somthing disturbing. Thats the look I got. I think I will be doing a cooling system flush in the near future.
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ToyHooter
90 LWB Montero
Sliders, Dual Bouncies, K&N, Flowmaster, Rancho Stabalizer, KYB Gas Adjusts,
ARB Compressor Under Hood, ARB Locker Waiting Garage Floor, Spare Tire Bike/CB Ant Mount
"I didn't do it, you didn't see me, you can't prove it."
Bart Simpson
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I hear ya Bill, that amazed me too. He's smart and modest...
Eddy, I'm thinking along those lines. I've replaced the lifters before, but I'm going to do it again. I've got 2 new sets now, 1 made in Korea and 1 made J apan. Guess which I'll be using. I've got a Fel-pro head set; sufficient? Or should I get a couple head gaskets from OE? The machinist will be doing a valve lap/grind with alot of new stuff in the head, just for good meaure and parts are cheap for me. I may come get you to help me prep the decks, ok? What was that Costa Rican concoction you were inclined to imbibe in, again?
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Just another idiot...
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MI_Mitsu
Rock Warrior
Reged: 03/24/06
Posts: 702
Loc: Romulus, Michigan (Detroit)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Thank you for being so succinct, Jim...
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Just another idiot...
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Oyaji_Jon
Roll Me Over
Reged: 11/01/01
Posts: 3269
Loc: Pebble Beach, CA
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Larry, I got the whole "head set" from the dealer when i did mine. Do you want me to get you the part number? If I remember correctly, I spent ~$250 (worth it for all the trouble it is to get to all these gaskets). Let me know if you want me to look through my stuff.
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73
-Jon
KJ6GVM
As seen on Expedition with TX plates: VEGETARIAN - An old Indian word for poor hunter
Grampa's Trooper
1974 FJ40
1987 FJ60
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MI_Mitsu
Rock Warrior
Reged: 03/24/06
Posts: 702
Loc: Romulus, Michigan (Detroit)
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Quote:
Thank you for being so succinct, Jim...
I was just shocked. She was purring when I last seen her a few weeks back. What did you do to her?
I think I sold my spare 3.0L heads - not sure yet. But I do have my block left over from the scrapped 89. I had it hot tanked and new freeze plugs put in. Nothing else. Still bare. If you need it. Still have the crank, lower end and most of upper end left too.
Keep me in mind. I can still piggyback freight into my Buford work sporadically.
Best of luck to you though.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Jon, thanks for the thought. I talked to Eddy last nite and he said he saw nothing wrong with the Felpro gasket. I've already been comped a full set and a head set. I may be comped all the other stuff, but that rep's out for a couple weeks and can't be reached right now.
Thanks for the offer Jim. I may take you up on the block one of these days. I'd like to put one on a stand and take my time doing the rebuild myself. Frank's offered to do it for me, and that's probably better quality than doing it myself. But, it still ain't ME doing it. And I feel like it'd be a labor of love, being Dad's truck and all...
More pics in a minute that should be less fuzzy. Mainly for Eddy's benefit, because he's watching from home. Really bummed I couldn't come get you man. It just wasn't the day for it....
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Frank, I looked real close at the edges on the ring on the head and saw no chunks missing, guess that was an optical illusion. I've lost motivation to do anything on it today as it's hot and I'm a wuss. It apparently skipped spring and jump straight into summer... 
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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My main desktop PC at home is down, so when I looked at your pictures on the laptop, it looked like a chunk was missing. On the office PC, I can see it was a stain and not a missing piece.
Those heads sure look nasty..... the good news is the valves look ok.
You can probably get some more life from the engine, but here's my case for a full rebuild:
1) You have already done a lot of the work required to completely remove the engine.
2) You have already decided to take the truck out of commission for a while.
3) You already have at least an oil pan leak and it's not easy to fix that without dang near pulling the engine.
4) The engine has - what - 225,000 miles?
5) You get the parts cheap.
6) A machinist owes you a favor.
7) It would be a shame to rework the heads, put it all back together and have to take it down again any time soon.... and do much of the same work over again.
If you decide on a rebuild, I'll be happy to help by assembling the engine - but - you can do the rebuild yourself and would probably feel great about it when you finish. We can walk/talk you through it step-by-step..... it ain't rocket science..... just requires some attention to detail.
One suggestion before you get too far, though. If you decide to do a rebuild yourself, clean one piston top and the deck area around that piston before you disassemble the engine - then measure how far the piston rises above the deck at TDC. It helps to use a piston stop and a dial readout, but you can get close with a straightedge across the piston and feeler gauges between the straightedge and the deck. You may need to know that number later.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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0778drz110
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 08/31/08
Posts: 1171
Loc: Boca Raton, FL
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Quote:
I've lost motivation to do anything on it today as it's hot and I'm a wuss. It apparently skipped spring and jump straight into summer...
Maybe they will have an April freeze with snow up in the mountains like last year? 
I'll be watching this thread, the Gen1 LWB I'm picking up has a blow head gasket and 183k miles...maybe time for a turbo swap or rebuild and timing belt?
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1988 Montero SWB: 2.6L 5spd 38.5x15 TSL Boggers on 15x14 wheels, 2" body lift, 2" suspension lift, cut fenders, roof rack, 6 55w lights, 10,000lb. winch, pintle hitch
1997 GMC Yukon SLT 4x4: Vortec 5.7L, 4L60E auto, NP243, bluetooth, nav, 4 12" subs, LEDs, HIDs, 2 7" LCDs
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Lazybones! I knew I shoulda found a way down there...
My theory is this: If the honing marks are still there on the thrust surfaces, put the heads on it and call it a day for now. That short block is too sound to rebuild yet. Given more leisure time for Larry, my answer might be different, but he only has one day off a week, and long days the other 6.
Help my old brain here. I told Larry the power stroke thrust side of the dside cylinder bank it to the inside of the vee with a clockwise rotation of the the engine, and on the outside of the vee on the pside. Correct? Thrust side will be opposite the side of the crank throw direction? I know that there is also wear on the compression thrust side, but not nearly as much force there. I also look for any rock in the piston, side to side, but you usually only see that with a collapsed piston skirt or a ton of cylinder wear...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I know I'm lazy.... I just couldn't get motivated. Had a big get together yesterday and the ensuing mess to be dealt with into the night and this morning. Couldn't leave it all for Lisa to do, so I played suzie homemaker and got some right awesome egg salad sammiches out of the deal. My coworkers will hate it tomorow though... 
I'm really torn with what to do here. Both of ya'll have valid arguments that make tons of sense. Eddy, my work schedule isn't nearly as hectic as I make it seem. It's the home and church responsibilties that can get me sometimes...
This week and next I have peope taking vacations which loads me up more, but I can make time to do this right. I have delivery trucks to drive during the week and all weekend, so the lack of transportation isn't a key factor. I want to do this the rightest way possible.
Frank, on the measurement you're referring to, is that for if I mill both head and deck surfaces possibly requiring the shim to bring timing back?
Eddy, no clue how to answer your questions, of course
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
I told Larry the power stroke thrust side of the dside cylinder bank it to the inside of the vee with a clockwise rotation of the the engine, and on the outside of the vee on the pside. Correct? Thrust side will be opposite the side of the crank throw direction
Yes..... and yes. The major thrust side is the passenger side of the cylinder and the minor thrust side is the driver side. The major thrust side is also the side that the rod oil squirters are on (except on my engine, which has no rod squirters).
Quote:
Frank, on the measurement you're referring to, is that for if I mill both head and deck surfaces possibly requiring the shim to bring timing back?
You got it.... If it was a forced induction engine, I'd bore it first, then cut the deck to the piston deck clearance after they were temporarily installed for measurement - but a N/A engine isn't quite so demanding on assembly specs and if you know beforehand what the deck height is in relation to the piston top at TDC, you can assume replacement pistons will be close.... so you can have the deck cut at the same time the cylinders are bored. The method isn't quite as accurate, but will save some time.
To do it this way, you'll want to have the heads surfaced first, so you know what has been removed before you think about the decks.
If you want to be extremely accurate, don't worry about the piston clearance beforehand, but don't get the decks cut until later.
Frank
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Given alternate transportation, and the funds to do so, build the motor, based on what Frank said about being a long ways toward having the motor out. You have enough $ in the truck for it to be worthwhile, and might as well get all the benefit out of the "machine shop owes me" as you can. And then you can find something else to worry about...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Then built she shall be....
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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junkyaRd_doG
Need a Spot
Reged: 02/22/10
Posts: 14
Loc: Nor Cal
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Quote:
Then built she shall be....
a wise decision
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Dodge Raider 1989 3.0 Manual
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MI_Mitsu
Rock Warrior
Reged: 03/24/06
Posts: 702
Loc: Romulus, Michigan (Detroit)
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Quote:
Then built she shall be....
I salute you sir!
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Before you do anything else with the heads, clean the head gasket and valve cover gasket mating surfaces of each one really well with a coarse rag and lacquer thinner and measure the head thickness (all 4 corners of each head). Take your measurement between the valve cover gasket flange and the bottom of the head with a good caliper and make sure it's squared up on the head. The standard spec is 3.310"..... any less and the head has already been resurfaced. Get a good measurement all around on both heads.
Next, turn the head upside down and put a straightedge (metal carpenter's 24x12" framing square is what I use) end-to-end down the middle of the head. Turn off any bench lighting and shine a flashlight toward you from behind the straitedge. If you see any light coming through at the bottom of the straightedge, that's the warp you'll need to deal with. Move the straightedge from side-to-side on the head, but parallel to the head C/L. Measure with feeler gauges to find the amount of bow. Then put the straightedge on both diagonal corners and get another view of it. Anything more than .002-.003" and you'll need to try to find someone to straighten them - or get another set of heads.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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MI_Mitsu
Rock Warrior
Reged: 03/24/06
Posts: 702
Loc: Romulus, Michigan (Detroit)
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Quote:
Next, turn the head upside down and put a straightedge (metal carpenter's 24x12" framing square is what I use) end-to-end down the middle of the head. Turn off any bench lighting and shine a flashlight toward you from behind the straitedge. If you see any light coming through at the bottom of the straightedge, that's the warp you'll need to deal with. Move the straightedge from side-to-side on the head, but parallel to the head C/L. Measure with feeler gauges to find the amount of bow. Then put the straightedge on both diagonal corners and get another view of it. Anything more than .002-.003" and you'll need to try to find someone to straighten them - or get another set of heads.
Frank
Frank - funny you should mention this. I never quite trusted carpenter's squares anymore as they are all tossed about in backends of trucks and made in China to boot.
I've already rebuilt one 3.0L, in process of starting a 2.6L, I see another 2.6L Turbo in my future, possibly a 3.0L unless hazy wants the block, a 5.0L Ford and my 37 Lincoln V12.
So i decided to get THIS along with a professional hone, cylinder bore gage, and master ring. $$$$$ for sure, but when you know you're going to do this thing over and over again....
Well, a carpenter's square is a good start. But if there is something borderline, I would suggest to get a true straight edge (as linked) or rely on your local shop to SHOW you the warp with their gauge tool - and hopefully they havent mistreated their tools. 
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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There's certainly nothing wrong with a good straightedge, but my framing square is good enough for me - maybe because it's made of steel, 35 years old and has never been abused.
I have a large piece of leftover polished black granite countertop that I use to check my straightedge and other things like intake and exhaust manifold flanges - but I wish I had room in the garage to make it into a table so I don't have to lift it onto the workbench for use..... the thing's sorta heavy.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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My mentor, the old alky a&p mechanic, had a surplus fighter windshield that was optically flat for a surface plate for stuff like this. I priced a Sterett (sp?) surface plate in granite, but it was way too pricey. I settled on a piece of 1/4" x 2" steel bar that I had a machine shop mill super flat for me, then somebody did a permanent borrow on that.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Go to a shop that fabricates custom counter tops and ask for a large scrap - either pure granite or one of the aggregate granite/epoxy mixes like Silestone. They'll prabably give you an end cut or a sink cutout.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Got a little motivation this evening when I got home from work. Popped the P/S head off and a few other pieces. The P/S pump was making me it's b!itch, so I stopped before I got too pissed off... I've had it off before but can't recall the process. Gonna think on it and it'll probably come to me in the night. Several more pictures to follow. I pulled the head gaskets off the block and don't see any etching or spots where there was any compromise to the fire ring. Those of ya'll with good eyes, let me know what you see.
That's something laying on the piston, NOT a crack.
I also drafted a list for my machinist. Let me know what I'm missing please.
On the heads: Grind valves, mill head, check cam for straightness and turn or polish it, check it's journals and line bore if needed, replace valve stem seals, cam bearings, VLA's, freeze plugs, all seals & o-rings. Replacing any parts that need to be. I may, for good measure and low cost, replace the valves, springs, guides & locks with new Sealed Power.
On the block: Tank and deck it, bore cylinders as necessary, replace pistons, rings, rod & main bearings, check rods and crank for straightness and correct as needed, line hone where/if needed, chase head bolt threads with bottoming tap, inspect oil pump and repair/replace as needed, replace all seals, o-rings, gaskets and freeze plugs.
On the exhaust manifold: Have sanded to bring true on head mating surface.
On the intake manifold: Have tanked to clean and check for straightness and correct/replace as needed.
Frank, all of your instructions will be heeded and done. I have my Dad's framing square, circa 1972, American made and HEAVY. I've already checked it's straightness at the solid surface countertop place down the street from the NAPA store. I never thought to ask for a sink cutout, but I will soon.
Sorry for such a long post, but I'd like this to be as thorough as possible and maybe be refined into a tech article for future reference.
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Just another idiot...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Ah, just put new heads on it and call it done...
4 bolts hold the pump in, one on the back and 3 on the front, then two hold the bracket on the iron thingy. Look at the power steering section of the 89 fsm...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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You probably won't be able to see any deck etching until the decks are cleaned.
Don't cut the decks until you've finished the heads and know how much was removed...... otherwise, you may have to cut the decks twice.
Forget about inspecting the oil pump - get a new one.
Remove the three oil gallery plugs and all freeze plugs before the block goes to the machinist - that way he can't take any short cuts and the wash job will be better.
Have the machinist polish the crankshaft journals.
Before you disassemble the rods, mark the front and number of each bearing cap with a center punch and don't mix up the rods and caps. A better way is to use number punches and punch across the parting line of the rod/cap, but if you don't have a set of number punches, a center puch works fine - 2 dimples for #2, 4 dimples for #4, etc along the center line of the bearing cap and an extra dimple above the number row for a front-of-engine reference.
Add "check/file" ring gap to your list. You'll want to check every ring in its bore, 1" down from the deck and squared up.
Add "check crankshaft journal/bearing clearances" to your list. You'll want to use plastigauge on the rod and main bearings. On the mains, I like to check the crankshaft in at least 3 positions - one 180 degrees from the other and one 90 degrees from the either - to check for crankshaft straightness/bore alignment as indicated by a change of clearance at the bearing caps.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Never fails to amaze me to see honing marks on the cylinder walls on an engine like that. I mean just think how many times those pistons/rings have gone up and down in the last 225,000 miles!
Good work Larry. Keep at it
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Got motivated after work today to get a little bit done. Got started around 9:30 and finished a little after 3am. Long night but I have no plans for tomorrow so I'll just sleep in. Got it stripped down except for the bottom end, which I'll do after I get it on the engine stand. Have to get some bolts from Lowes tomorrow to do that. I'll be taking all the measurements that Frank suggested and making plenty of notes.
Found the majority of the culprit of my front oil leak. The spring rolled off the seal.
The result of the melee...
All the sundry parts that had to be removed. Now they'll be cleaned, evaluated and replaced/repaired as necessary.
The empty hole...
I'll be doing several other projects while it's down for this. Wiring cleanup, CS144 alternator adaptation, front Aussie locker, Reman CV shafts, new bearings on the front, New pads and rotisseries all around, Trans and T-case reseal, Pinion angle correction, Constructing another driveshaft with OE joints and balancing of said shaft, and probably a few other things I'm forgetting....
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Just another idiot...
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Oyaji_Jon
Roll Me Over
Reged: 11/01/01
Posts: 3269
Loc: Pebble Beach, CA
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Lookin' good, Larry! Keep movin', man. If you stop for a while like I did, it's hard to get started again...
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73
-Jon
KJ6GVM
As seen on Expedition with TX plates: VEGETARIAN - An old Indian word for poor hunter
Grampa's Trooper
1974 FJ40
1987 FJ60
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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You'll appreciate the effort when it's running again.
While the engine's out, replace the input shaft seal on the transmission - unless that's been done recently.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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There ya go man!! Get that workshop dirty!!
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Quote:
You'll appreciate the effort when it's running again.
While the engine's out, replace the input shaft seal on the transmission - unless that's been done recently.
Frank
Absolutely. I'll be resealing both the trans and t-case.
Thanks for the words of encouragement all! It really does help to keep my motivation on the boil...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Your memory may be better than mine, but I find it much easier and more time-saving if the fasteners and small bits from each assembly are put in separate plastic pint-size sandwich/freezer zip-lock bags with their I.D. written on the bags.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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89IsMine
Rock Warrior
Reged: 05/16/05
Posts: 927
Loc: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Your memory may be better than mine, but I find it much easier and more time-saving if the fasteners and small bits from each assembly are put in separate plastic pint-size sandwich/freezer zip-lock bags with their I.D. written on the bags.
Frank
x2 Saved my butt more than once...
Eric W.
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'89 Dodge Raider -- 3.0L V6, MT, SWB
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Frank, I had the same ouchy twinge you did when I saw the converter still on the flexplate. Larry, disco the converter before you pull the motor, and leave it in the tranny just long enough to get the motor out of the way, then pull it out of the tranny oil pump so the weight doesn't distort the tranny front seal. Pain in the butt to get at, but a LOT safer, unless you are dead sure you can pull the engine straight forward without any deviation at all.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I hear ya on that. But, seals are cheap and it was gonna get replaced anyway. And I'd already spent a couple hours underneath that bastard. And I forgot to wash it after our last trail ride. And it was raining north Georgia dirt the whole time. And that sucked.
I did come straight out before giving any upward thrust... Now it's on the stand awaiting me pulling its bottom out. That may happen tomorrow night. Lisa got me a new-to-me workbench that needed a little modding. So, it got an 8 inch lift... now it sits at 45", which is the perfect height for me to work at it for long periods of time without back fatigue.
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
Frank, I had the same ouchy twinge you did when I saw the converter still on the flexplate.
He'll learn.
Larry, before I forget to mention it, order 6 new torque converter bolts from the dealer. Those bolts stretch about .010" on each tightening and re-use can distort the converter innards.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Quote:
Quote:
Frank, I had the same ouchy twinge you did when I saw the converter still on the flexplate.
He'll learn.
Larry, before I forget to mention it, order 6 new torque converter bolts from the dealer. Those bolts stretch about .010" on each tightening and re-use can distort the converter innards.
Frank
This ain't my first rodeo fellas. It's acceptable to do it either way, so long as you're not silly about it (ie you don't want to angle the motor up so that the converter neck is in a bind.) That seal should get replaced every time the converter is taken out of it, IMHO.
Frank, I already had those bolts coming. My old ones looked fine, but they're cheap insurance.
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Got everything off to the machine shop. Upon disassembly, I noticed a little of what looked like some etching or water damage in #6 cylinder bore. After washing the head at the machine shop, I could see a small spot where there was a slight head gasket failure. Pics to follow...
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Here are the pics of the cylinders in no particular order.
And 2 photos of the #6 cylinder I mentioned earlier.
I thought that it looked pretty nasty. The machinist said it's fairly normal, that most vehicles with at least 100k on the clock have some sort of water entry into the cylinders. Especially in climates where temperatures and humidity levels can have wide daily ranges. I dunno... thoughts?
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Looks like you caught it before it got too bad. Were you losing some coolant?
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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None that I could tell. I replaced the radiator a few months ago and the puke bottle hasn't moved since. And I check all fluids at least once a week, if not every day.
On a somewhat related note, we home-school our 2 sons, aged 10 and 12. We will be taking a field trip to the machine shop on Monday for a guided tour which will include demonstrations of the various equipment in action. I'll be taking pictures for posterity and will share a few here that apply. I'm also dropping off the OE cam seals, dizzy o-ring, and rear cam plugs so that they can be installed while they build the heads. I'll be taking every nut, bolt, and bracket too so they can be tanked and cleaned. That way I'll have uniform purdiness....
Oh yeah, what are ya'll's thoughts on brass vs steel freeze plugs? I have a brass set already, but steel is easy to come by...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Either one is ok for your engine. I always used brass on raw water cooled marine engines so they wouldn't rust out, but the steel ones last long enough with fresh water mixed with antifreeze. If you want the best, use the brass ones.
After cleaning the block bore, I put a smear of RTV around the edge of the freeze plug before installation. I don't know if it does any good - but like chicken soup, it doesn't hurt anything.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Lisa makes a meanass home made chicken noodle soup. Next time we come up, I'll have her give your girl the recipe. I'll stick with the brass ones that I already have with an RTV smear...
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Just another idiot...
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JAVYPRO
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 02/04/01
Posts: 1832
Loc: Buford, GA USA
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Hi Larry, Quite a task you got there. I see myself on my engine swap project and my wife wearing her white gloves making sure the garage stays up to her standards
Great job man.
Javy
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88 red Montero with the Dakar Special Edition decals, 438,000 miles (As of 7/23/2012) some occational blue puffing but still strong and counting!!! I am going ppsshhh (turbo), Stay tuned =) ...
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PHIL
Mitsubishi Section Editor and Moderator
Reged: 01/09/00
Posts: 7145
Loc: Airdrie, Alberta
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Love this thread. Just gave it a read through from start to now, and it reads like a story. Can't wait for the next chapter! My favorite quote so far? "This ain't my first rodeo fellas."
Good stuff fellas. Keep on it, Larry. At the end of this thread, you'll have a an awesome rebuild.
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93 Pajero 2800 turbo diesel: "Ol'Betsy #5"
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Kevin C
Trail Leader
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6033
Loc: No where in particular
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On feeze plugs I have been using a bit of loctite when I put them in. Same theory as Frank's... It cant hurt.
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87 Dodge
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
On a somewhat related note, we home-school our 2 sons, aged 10 and 12. We will be taking a field trip to the machine shop on Monday for a guided tour which will include demonstrations of the various equipment in action.
I didn't know you guys home school, that's cool!
Maybe you guys can use this for your garage too:
I snapped the pic today when I was driving through town.. It's a Rotary Milling machine that was put outside a local machine shop that closed..
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Quote:
I snapped the pic today when I was driving through town.. It's a Rotary Milling machine that was put outside a local machine shop that closed..
Just left there?! Man, I'd love to have that
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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RECON45
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 07/20/09
Posts: 1216
Loc: Statesville, NC
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Quote:
Quote:
I snapped the pic today when I was driving through town.. It's a Rotary Milling machine that was put outside a local machine shop that closed..
Reuben you do not need that. just make friends with the guys in the engineering department and you will be set.
Just left there?! Man, I'd love to have that
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91 Montero LS "RECON", Auto, Dual Bouncy Seats, SR rear axle with air locker, 2" Suspension lift, 2" Body Lift, GENII front IFS, 32" MT tires
www.lifehope.us.com
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I snapped the pic today when I was driving through town.. It's a Rotary Milling machine that was put outside a local machine shop that closed..
Reuben you do not need that. just make friends with the guys in the engineering department and you will be set.
Just left there?! Man, I'd love to have that
No, you misunderstand, I do need that Love old 'arn'
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Reuben, do you have 40 friends to help you lift that hunk of iron onto the trailer? And a two ton hydraulic jack to lift the trailer up to replace the axle? And real good medical insurance for the hernia repair and frying pan injury treatment after your wife sees what you just put in the garage...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Quote:
Reuben, do you have 40 friends to help you lift that hunk of iron onto the trailer? And a two ton hydraulic jack to lift the trailer up to replace the axle? And real good medical insurance for the hernia repair and frying pan injury treatment after your wife sees what you just put in the garage...
Are you trying to tell me that machine won't fit on the passenger seat of my Miata?! Even with the top down?!!
Sorry for the hijack Larry
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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I KNOW I've told this story before (as we wait on Larry to get his stuff back from the machine shop)...
I was working in ATL and living in Birmingham, commuting on the weekends, waiting to sell the Bham house, when the wife calls up on a Thursday and says the dishwasher quit. I was working for a builder and so got a heck of a price on one in ATL. I was driving a Fiat 124 Spider. I tied it on the luggage rack and off I went to Bham in the pouring rain, making the most amazing roostertail with the great big "spoiler" on the back.
So, yes, I think you could get it in the miata, but I don't think the miata will survive the trip intact...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Quote:
I KNOW I've told this story before (as we wait on Larry to get his stuff back from the machine shop)...
I was working in ATL and living in Birmingham, commuting on the weekends, waiting to sell the Bham house, when the wife calls up on a Thursday and says the dishwasher quit. I was working for a builder and so got a heck of a price on one in ATL. I was driving a Fiat 124 Spider. I tied it on the luggage rack and off I went to Bham in the pouring rain, making the most amazing roostertail with the great big "spoiler" on the back.
Would love to see a picture of that
I bought my current Miata in Chicago (long story). It came with a extra set of wheels and tires that I had to transport home I had 1 on the passenger seat, 2 on the shelf behind the seats and the last 1 hanging out of the trunk. I drove it back to NC like that
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
Quote:
I KNOW I've told this story before (as we wait on Larry to get his stuff back from the machine shop)...
I was working in ATL and living in Birmingham, commuting on the weekends, waiting to sell the Bham house, when the wife calls up on a Thursday and says the dishwasher quit. I was working for a builder and so got a heck of a price on one in ATL. I was driving a Fiat 124 Spider. I tied it on the luggage rack and off I went to Bham in the pouring rain, making the most amazing roostertail with the great big "spoiler" on the back.
Would love to see a picture of that
I bought my current Miata in Chicago (long story). It came with a extra set of wheels and tires that I had to transport home I had 1 on the passenger seat, 2 on the shelf behind the seats and the last 1 hanging out of the trunk. I drove it back to NC like that
I'd have to laugh if I saw that! I actually fit 5 Montero SR wheels/tires in my Corolla to deliver to Keith in Ohio one time. I got the whole set, and the extra Spare in there, they were roughly 31" tires I think?
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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My daughter put a washer and a dryer in the back end of a lwb gen1, the same one willwinchforfood has now, and the back door would shut...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
My daughter put a washer and a dryer in the back end of a lwb gen1, the same one willwinchforfood has now, and the back door would shut...
I did the same thing! standing up right.... Also had a double cast iron sink too was on a site inspection in Kingstown, NY and the guy offered them to me.. I have a picture of that somewhere.
That was the day my transmission boiled over pulling this huge mountain through the Poconos coming into Pennsylvania and caught fire. That was a LOT of weight in the back of that truck. The washing machine was one of those Maytag professional ones that doesn't completely drain...
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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JAVYPRO
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 02/04/01
Posts: 1832
Loc: Buford, GA USA
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Larry is not back yet, right?
Talking about weird stuff on the roof. I remember, before the Montero days, driving my sporty Eclipse with the sunroof open and at the GA400 toll plaza I spoted something through the roof, and for the life of me it was Santa, YES SANTA, A guy had built a sled with Santa, the gifts and a whole bunch of decoration lights on top of his Cherokee. It was Hilarious. People at the plaza started honking their horns and laughing it was quite a spectacle.
Javy
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88 red Montero with the Dakar Special Edition decals, 438,000 miles (As of 7/23/2012) some occational blue puffing but still strong and counting!!! I am going ppsshhh (turbo), Stay tuned =) ...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I leave a thread unattended for a few days, and WHAMMO!!!! Thanks for the props Phil. Great stories all. And Brendan, if you can get it somewhere that I can send a truck after, I'll see if I can get it. A couple guys I know are truckers and they're up there pretty regular.
Got .75mm over pistons ordered from Sealed Power. The machinist wants them in hand before he bores the block. Wants to weigh and measure them first. Should have them by Friday. Maybe. There was no availability on .50mm over pistons and it was going to be June before they'd arrive, so I decided on bigger. I'm sure opinions will vary on that... Pardon the interruption, carry on with the story telling
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Just another idiot...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Nothin' is weirder than the bow hunter I saw in the funeral procession, with the dead deer still strapped on the front fender, with the arrow thru the skull, and the 4 wheeler strpped in the back with the mud still on it. Could have at least cleaned up the 4wheeler. At least he had changed out of the camo, except for the cap, but I don't think an orange polyester knit sport coat over a blue (BRIGHT blue) knit shirt is listed in the etiquette books as suitable for funerals, even in Tennessee.
Smart machinist, Larry. Never bore until the pistons are in hand and measured...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
Brendan, if you can get it somewhere that I can send a truck after, I'll see if I can get it. A couple guys I know are truckers and they're up there pretty regular.
Here is where it's at.. just change it to Aerial View, and then put Birds Eye, when you zoome in at the corner of S Maple St, and W Trade St. That machine is sitting where the one silver car is. It's a shame they put it over there -- they have a loading dock on the corner of the building that is housing a dumpster right now (I should go dumpster diving now that I think about it)
Location
If you're serious about it.. I can stop by and inquire about it.. otherwise I don't know what's stopping it from going missing. 
EDIT: Here's an even better shot of street view, I don't know when they took these pictures, but it looks like it's been outside a while! Google Maps
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
Edited by 87Montero (04/21/10 04:56 PM)
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Quote:
Pardon the interruption, carry on with the story telling
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Pistons came in yesterday and were delivered to the machinist. Went STD on all the bearings as they'll just be polishing the cams and crank journals.
Got the oil pump and pickup from Sealed Power too. Oil pump is right, pickup ain't (P/N 224-15084 is NOT the right number) and when I called Sealed Power tech support, they said they had no listing for the 3.0 in either Montero or Raider and they couldn't cross the OE number.
Called Mitsu parts and gave him the number and asked him to get it for me. He called me back and told me it was NLA nationwide. Then I called Dodge parts and got the same story from them. So, it be's gonna get tanked with the other parts and reused, much as I hate to. I've inspected it using a light shined inside to see if there are any cracks not visible with the magnifying glass. Anybody got any better ideas?
Another issue is my heat shields on the exhaust manifolds. When I was removing them, part of the heat shield came off with the bolts resulting in the stock bolt falling thru the hole. I called about new ones from Mitsu and the better of the 2 is still available, but not the worse one. So, I've been looking at other options. Possibly fabbing new ones, using some kind of header wrap, running without them, having them ceramic coated, dunno... Ideas on that?
Stay tuned til next time, cause there's bound to be some good stories...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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The oil pickup is probably just fine. I've replaced them on really gunked up engines - but if you clean them with mineral spirits in a parts washer, they usually are perfectly good.
I've advised here before to look for future replacements in yards for exhaust manifolds heat shields. You can bang out a set if you like, but I'll take a look and see what's in the yard. I don't think you want to run without them, but many folks have done just that. Another option is to use a large fender washer to capture the remainder of what's left around the hole.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I thought the fender washers were my best option thus far...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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I just looked at what we have here - same problem that you have - enlarged bolt holes. I think I'd put a fender washer on both sides of the hole and sandwich the heat shield between them - should work.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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That's the plan. Especially after playing with some sheet metal last night. I was trying to make the multi layers like the OE. Way too much trouble and my hands look like I've been stringing barbed wire...
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Just another idiot...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Methinks it's time for the battery welder and some sheet metal patches. Got a coat hanger?
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I was just trying my hand at it with a few small scrap pieces I had at the store. I tossed the results in the scrap pile, which went out today while we cleaned up in preparation to paint the floors. Battleship gray looks so good on the floors at the store that I may get some to do the garage floor at the house with it...
I'm thinking the fender washers will probably be the easiest route. I'm going to get some of that high heat ceramic spray paint and do them in something flashy...
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Just another idiot...
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Mudraider
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 12/16/07
Posts: 1354
Loc: Orange Park, FL
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My heat shields were laying in the back of the Raider when I bought it. i had the rusted out holes and did the fender washer thing and it held great.
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87 Raider,3.5 soon,, 35's w/ a 4" BL,
bumpers, sliders, OME 2" lift Dakar springs, 98 Air locker, disc brake rear end, Gen 2 front brakes, plh manual hubs,
88 SWB-2.6/5spd, 2" BL, bumpers and sliders, Starion shift knob
89 SWB, V-6 6SPD, OME Shocks, 15X10 w/33's, 2"BL
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Glad to hear it worked for you, that's reassuring. Unless there's some divine intervention, that's what'll happen on mine...
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Got the call from the machine shop that they're done with what I asked them to do with it. So, I'll be getting it from them this week and starting assembly of the engine assembly. Still several things on the to-do list before it will go back in its hole, though. Haven't gotten the reseal on the trans & t-case done yet, or the locker installed, or the brakes all the way around. I've pretty much been a lazyass...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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That's a fairly quick turnaround compared to the shops I use.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I wasn't expecting it for another few weeks. I was surprised when they came buy to get some stuff Friday and they told me it was only another couple of hours till it'd be ready. I could've picked it up that night, but Lisa won't let me put it in the back of the CRV
She's a sport about some things... I'll post pics when I pick it up
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Having my driver pick up the motor and sundry items today. They told me the total was $405. $195 less than what they originally quoted me, which I was fine with, given their reputation. I told him he had told me $600 and he said he knew what he told me, but that's what the bill was... So, I can put that money back in the budget for steel for the front and rear bumpers. Pics to come...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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That's a lot better - and a very reasonable price.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Some quickly snapped pics after unloading the stuff from the truck. Sorry they're not real detailed, it's hot and I'm tired...
Everything was polished and stayed at standard sizing except the bores which are .030 over. I have so much new stuff to go into and on this thing that it'll be easier to list the old stuff that'll be reused. I've got to paint some stuff and get some more stuff powder coated. Gonna be a long process as I work painfully slow and don't have much spare time...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Looks good - but wrap that crankshaft in plastic wrap and stand it on end out of harm's way until you're ready to install it.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I did That was just the picture of it in the box that I brought it home in...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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When you get the block on the engine stand, before doing anything else, you'll want to stick a long screwdriver down into every coolant passages and scrape, scrape, scrape, scrape and scrape some more. A long pointed tool can be used to lightly jab at the bottom of the water jackets to see if there's any residue caked there. The washing vats seem to turn some of the sediment at the bottom of the jackets into a hard, but fairly porous material that can be poked, prodded and scraped away, but it's time consuming to get it all..... and you'll want to get as much as you can.
Maybe you'll get lucky if the machine shop did a really good job and got everything out.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Frank, you're talking about the water gallies down at the bottom of the cylinder skirt, I guess it's a skirt? If so, then they're pretty clean, best I can tell. Unless you're talking about somewhere else, then a picture may help me...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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That's right - alongside/around the cylinders and at the very bottom of the cooling area. Sometimes they come back clean enough, but sometimes they don't. Jab a screwdriver into the bottom of the cooling area all around the cylinders and make sure there's no scale or hard sediment that can be loosened.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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It looks like the block decks haven't been cut. Are you waiting to measure the deck height/piston clearance before you have him cut it - or did he say it's ok as is with little or no etching?
How much did he cut the heads?
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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It's kind of odd looking to me on the deck, to be honest. I can't really tell for sure, but I think you're right, they haven't been cut. It feels real smooth and the areas around the fire ring have nice 90* edges again. They didn't have that before, when I sent the block. The heads look like every milled head I've ever seen, nothing special or of note. I haven't measured the thicknesses of the heads yet to compare to my notes, but will do that in the next few days. I specifically asked him to not cut anything that didn't need it. If polishing would suffice, then only polish. It appears that he listened...
I'll get some more detailed pictures up soon for your perusal Frank. Kevin and Eddy, I want to hear from ya'll too, please!!! The more eyeballs the better because it's been years since my last motor overhaul and I've begun to feel I've bitten off more than I can chew... Loss of motivation is a biotch... 
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Once you have the parts, it won't take long to build that engine - so let's get going!
If you need a refresher course, here's #1:
Mount the block on the engine stand.
Get back to me when you've done that.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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It's not the building that's going to take the time, though. It's all the other damn projects I wanted to do while the engine was out... I really don't want to start to assemble the motor til I get the other stuff done. I might be tempted to not do all of it if I have the motor pressing me to put it in... Thanks for the kick in the pants though
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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OK, you've fallen into one of my patented states where it's easier to not do it because there are so many things to do, you don't want to decide where to start. So, as my wife would advise, make a list and do the easiest thing first so you can scratch something off the list and feel like you're making progress. The list becomes your task master. The more progress you make, the better you feel and the faster you work.
If you get motivated and work fast, it's only 3 or 4 hours or so to install the Aussie Locker, so do that first and check it off the list.
Otherwise, you'll still be leaning over the fender and looking at the hole in the engine bay this time next year.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Yes.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Frank, thanks for taking my call at work. Here's the pictures of the "cancer" I was referring to. This is the driver's side head, between 4 & 6. From what I described on the phone, Frank thinks it's glycol etching, which I've seen before but never knew what to call it. I'm inclined to agree. I've got a call in to my machinist to get his opinion... It appears to be just in the hole opening in the head gasket and looks like it will be contained with proper clamping. But, I'd like some (Frank, KevinC, Eddy, and anybody else that would like to weigh in ) eagle-eyed opinions...
And here is the corresponding galley in the block.
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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With the exception of that corroded area, the head finish came out really nice. I still think that will be ok, but I want to check the gasket, head and block I have at home tonight before I say for sure. It sure is an ugly spot, though. 
I don't want to say it's ok without making sure you're not supposed to have a coolant passage at that spot in the head..... or that the gasket should not be punched for that opening.
I'll get back to you tonight.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Quote:
I don't want to say it's ok without making sure you're not supposed to have a coolant passage at that spot in the head..... or that the gasket should not be punched for that opening.
I feel the same way. Why is there a block passage and gasket passage and no corresponding passage in the head? It's like the steam holes in an sbc 400ci head...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Had some success on the other projects today. Thanks Eddy for talking me thru that damn shifter. I was pretty sure I had it figured out, but it helps to hear first-hand experience. Because I hate taking stuff apart unnecessarily... I was too lazy to take the A/T cooler lines off, so I left the trans and t-case together and went out the front.
Again, thanks ya'll for taking my calls and offering your invaluable advice
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
Why is there a block passage and gasket passage and no corresponding passage in the head? It's like the steam holes in an sbc 400ci head...
Yep - it may even contribute to blown head gaskets - but maybe not. Maybe it's designed to better transfer heat evenly over the length of the head.
Larry, here's a picture of the passenger side deck of an '89 3.0L with an OE gasket in place. Note the same holes are in the gasket as are in the deck:
Here's a picture of some '89 3.0L heads and you'll see there's no corresponding hole in the head:
What threw me off was the amount of etching - I've never seen it that bad on a 3.0L head. Here's a picture of my 3.0L heads after milling only a couple of thousandths:
I checked a set of '91 heads I recently pulled for future use and found they're etched even worse than yours in that area, so don't worry about it - you're good to go.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Thanks for the thorough research Frank. I'll charge ahead will all the projects at the same time now. I get bored with one task for too long so I have to keep several things going at once... Any tips on painting stuff like the block, heads, manifolds, and/or periphery? Mainly concerning masking and keeping paint off sealing areas are what I'm looking for...
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Just another idiot...
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Kevin C
Trail Leader
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6033
Loc: No where in particular
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My guess is that the hole is there for cleaning out casting sand and is core support when the block is made. That side of the head runs hotter since its on the exhaust side so corrosion is more likely.
Can you tell if the block is a siamesed? The siamesed blocks dont have a water space between the adjacent cylinder bores.
As an option the gasket is punched , just in case it was ever decided to use the hole for coolant flow. That way there is no need to track gasket versions and only a design change to the head would be needed to use that port.
Since its not in a critical area, as others have mentioned, its fine as is.
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87 Dodge
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
Any tips on painting stuff like the block, heads, manifolds, and/or periphery? Mainly concerning masking and keeping paint off sealing areas are what I'm looking for...
Before you start painting, you need to wash the block really well on the stand.
That set of heads (pictured) now on my engine was painted by the machine shop, but if they don't do it, I never do. If you want to paint yours, use hi-temp paint and just mask off the areas you don't want sprayed and don't load it up around the spark plug holes.
The block can be sprayed with any engine enamel. I don't mask anything, but rotate the engine on the stand and try to angle the spray so the decks and pan gasket surface don't get too much overspray. You'll need several coats of paint for the block and it will get into places where you don't want paint - but if you don't wait too long, a towel and acetone will remove it fairly easily with a bit of rubbing. After the paint dries, you'll want to chase every block hole with a tap.
Hi-temp brake caliper spray works well on brackets and the lower intake if you find the color you want. Exhaust manifolds need the really hi-temp paint, which will last for a while, but eventually burn off.
There are some specialty paints that will work better/last longer than anything I use, but I haven't tried them.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
Can you tell if the block is a siamesed?
Kevin, the 3.0L blocks have 360° bore cooling - they're not siamesed blocks.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Well, it's seen a little action lately. No pictures yet though. Last 2 nights I've played pick-a-bolt and phone-a-friend trying to get the oil pump, pickup, and filter adapter on. Been quite frustrating. Thanks for the help identifying those bolts Frank, I owe ya
I've since come to the conclusion that I've lost at least 1 bolt. After several trips to the computer from the garage to get bolt dimensions, I got tired of trying to figure out which 1 it was. So, I just ordered them all for the pickup and the adapter.
After that, I had a little time to kill last night, so I figured I'd do something that I DID have the parts for. I was going to put in the freeze plugs. Boy, was I ever wrong. They were going in fine til the next to last one. It sunk a little deeper than I liked. So, I figured I'd knock it out and get another one at work. First tap with a screwdriver to knock it sideways, it drops all the way in and falls down to the bottom of the coolant passage taking up permanent residence as it would seem. I rotated the engine on the stand, tapping everywhere to see if it would come loose and move closer to where I could get at it. All to no avail. I'm tempted to leave it there, unless someone has a better idea...
And did I mention I'm using non-magnetic brass freeze plugs?
And my daughter's getting married Saturday...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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I've had that happen while removing old ones. Don't leave it in there. You'll just have to be patient with a very long skinny screwdriver poked through the coolant holes and moved around until you find it. A flashlight shining through an adjacent deck hole will help you see it. It'll probably be wedged a little and you'll have to pry it until it comes loose - then rotate the block until you can see it, lift it to the bore and then grab it with vice grips to pull it out. Anything other than vice grips and you'll be sorry, because you'll probably lose it again.
It also may be necessary to remove more freeze plugs to get at the lost one. I know you don't want to pull more, but that's what may need to be done so you can lift with the screwdriver through one hole and grab the plug through the other.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Success! Got it pryed free with a long skinny screwdriver. Then I worked it towards its hole with a couple pieces of leftover solid copper wire. Used them like chopsticks thru a couple deck holes while grabbing it with the needle-nose Vice-Grips. Once locked on, it only took a couple twists and she gave it up. I was agonizing over what I was going to do if I couldn't free it...
Once again, thanks Frank for your ideas and encouragement. You're a great friend and a treasure of information for myself and everyone else here on the Wire
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Glad it worked the first time.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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sparkem
Trail Leader
Reged: 12/12/00
Posts: 6883
Loc: Ponchatoula, LA
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It will be awesome when it is done. I am still trying to come out there soon. I worked on my day off this week. It helps the small paychecks some.
I still have th skids and bolts you wanted in the back of my Montero. They have been there for a couple of months now. 
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I just want to tell you both good luck, and we're all counting on you.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Just let me know when you have some time off. Lisa and I would love to have ya'll for dinner and a movie or something...
I'm in no hurry for that stuff
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
It will be awesome when it is done. I am still trying to come out there soon. I worked on my day off this week. It helps the small paychecks some.
I still have th skids and bolts you wanted in the back of my Montero. They have been there for a couple of months now.
Let me know before you head down.. I have an ECU in a box to go Larry's way.. but I'm so old myself, I can't even remember to stop by the post office.
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Quote:
but I'm so old myself, I can't even remember to stop by the post office.
I bet I've got underwear older than you 
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Quote:
Quote:
but I'm so old myself, I can't even remember to stop by the post office.
I bet I've got underwear older than you
Willing to bet his underwear have better stories...
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Just another idiot...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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I've got a pair of boxers bought in 1968 that went to Woodstock, and there's no way you can top the stories in that pair. Left home with $50 and a QP, and came home with $32 and an empty baggie, hitchhiked both ways, and probably had as good a time on the road as on Yasgur's farm. The best ride was with a High Amish farmer on his way from PA to Lawrenceburg TN to buy some special seed in a black 54 Chevy with all the chrome painted black.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
but I'm so old myself, I can't even remember to stop by the post office.
I bet I've got underwear older than you
Willing to bet his underwear have better stories...
Well, that's just not saying much. 
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
but I'm so old myself, I can't even remember to stop by the post office.
I bet I've got underwear older than you
Willing to bet his underwear have better stories...
I'm sure that's true
Quote:
I've got a pair of boxers bought in 1968 that went to Woodstock, and there's no way you can top the stories in that pair.
Hail the mighty FE undies. Long may they prosper
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Here's some update pics. It's been slow going. Most days I get maybe an hour of free time to put in on it. The wedding went off great yesterday, so now maybe I can focus more time on it...
Of note in this pic is the oil pump pickup. The P/N listed by Sealed Power isn't anywhere close to being right and the Mitsu part is discontinued. Might be something to add to the pull lists for future use...
My pick-a-bolt selection area...
Reman GenII gearbox...
New distibutor...
New injectors...
All new ignition parts and all new sensors and switches...
All new timing covers...
I've amassed a very large array of new stuff to go back in with. I'm hoping it'll all pay off by feeling alot like a new truck...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Looks good! Those new parts are great! They should help take the aggravation factor out of that engine for a long time.
Did you not have the block decked?
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Funny you say that. By measuring, it was resurfaced about .002". But visually, it appears to not have been touched. I can say that it feels smoother than it did before it went to the machine shop, but the gasket "designs" that I could feel before are now just barely visible in the surface. It's odd because it seems to show up better in pictures than in person. Could it just be that the deck surface is stained? Or is that even possible?
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Just another idiot...
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off-roader
Mitsubishi Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/16/00
Posts: 15507
Loc: Bay Area, CA
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Nice.. very purty. 
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Off Roader
96SR (3.15:1 xcase, 35's), 89 V6 SWB (33's)
96SR Build Up Thread
Old web page
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Man, that looks like a fun project. Nice good Larry
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Looking good Larry,
Let me know if you need a hand.. I'll work for parts!
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Quote:
I'll work for parts!
Good to know Brendan
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Just another idiot...
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cmonty72
Trail Leader
Reged: 03/12/06
Posts: 6947
Loc: Carmichael California
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Looking clean bro.
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96 Montero LS 24V DOHC 3.0L.
98 Montero 24v SOHC 3.5L, factory rear locker, Winter/tow package.
63 Jaguar XKE 3.8L FHC
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Baby steps in the last fews days. The wife's recovering from gallbladder removal surgery so I've been home from work. Figured I'd have beaucoup time to play with it, but not so much...
Anyway, heres a few pics of the progress. The oil pan gasket is the Fel-Pro good one, as are the head gaskets. I got 90 lb/ft torque on the bolts after chasing the threads per Franks instructions. Not real happy with the paint adhesion on the new Mitsu oil pan. Maybe I didn't scuff it up well enough or let the paint cure long enough. You can see where it came off on the socket used to tighten the oil pan bolts. Oh well...
Maybe I'll have some time tomorrow to do some more...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Looks good - the paint is slow to cure until it gets some heat.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Another 3.0L discovery.......
I've thought the reinforced block was a Diamante difference, but I see your '91 block MKontero also has the lower rib. So, it appears that all of the SOHC 3.0L blocks were reinforced as a running change in '90 or '91. Here's a picture of an '89 block - note the lack of the lower horizontal rib:
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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RECON45
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 07/20/09
Posts: 1216
Loc: Statesville, NC
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Brave man to paint his engine white. If you have the humidty we are having up here in NC then the humidity has been a killer to get paint to cure. Looks good.
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91 Montero LS "RECON", Auto, Dual Bouncy Seats, SR rear axle with air locker, 2" Suspension lift, 2" Body Lift, GENII front IFS, 32" MT tires
www.lifehope.us.com
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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It won't be white for long, I'm sure. Little trick I picked up from Frank, makes it easier to find oil leaks.
The humidity's been bad here to. My garage stays closed up all day and there's a fan blowing constantly on the engine. Temps have been getting up to around 120-130 on the thermometer in there. Very oven-like... With daily temps in the mid 90's to low 100's occasionally with 60-80% humidity, it's rather unmotivating to do anything but suck up A/C when I get home. It's only 88 today, so I'm headed out for a few hours. Hopefully wifey will keep resting and stay asleep...
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Got a good bit done today. Lisa was in bed til almost 4 o'clock. She needed it. So did I. Good stuff Frank, you've got a sharp eye for this stuff.
Here's some pics...
I think I'm most pleased with how the lower intake turned out. I installed all new injectors with OE orings, seals and insulators.
The timing belt seriously tried to make me its b!tch. I kept getting the PS behind one tooth. Then I remembered somebody saying they led it a tad, but every time I tried, it kept slamming forward. So, I got a pry bar and stopped the spoke of the sprocket from going forward anymore while I put the belt up on it. New Gates timing belt, tensioner and water pump. New OE water pump gasket, water outlets/pipes, valley pipe oring, tensioner spring, and lots of new bolts (because I got tired of playing pick-a-bolt )
I've got to figure out the brackets for the motor mounts and stuff. It's been several months since I took it apart and I've forgotten how it goes. Any pics that may assist in reassembly would be greatly appreciated...
Got both valve covers mounted and everything below buttoned up...
I'm taking tomorrow and maybe Wednesday off from work, so I should be able to get more accomplished. Brendan, I may be ready for you by the end of the month
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Nice Progress!
Just let me know.. I'll make it happen.
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Here are pictures of the motor mounts on both sides. The transmission stays are also installed in these pictures. I have found that it's better to fully torque the motor mount bolts, but leave the transmission stay bolts a little loose. It's then easier to align the transmission stays to the bellhousing - just remember to tighten everything before calling it good.
There is a table in the FSM that indicates which bolts go where.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Awesome work Larry
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Thanks for the pics Frank. That's how I thought they went, but I wanted to be sure. The pictures in the FSM can leave a bit to the imagination...
Thanks Reuben
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Frank, do you have any of how all the frickin heat shields go?
I swear, if I ever have to any of this again, I'll be photo-documenting every f'in bolt... My memory used to be soooo much better.
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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I don't have any here at work, but I might at home. You should install the upper manifold log heat shields with 3 bolts each before installing the engine, but I'm guessing you're having trouble with the lower heat shields that are for motor mount protection. Those can't be installed until the engine is on the frame horns. The bolts go through the saddle brackets with the stud pointed upward. After the saddles/mounts are secure, then you can install the "L"-shaped heat shields over the stud. The long leg of the heat shield goes down and to the rear between the rubber mount and the exhaust manifold. If the first one doesn't want to go on, try the other one - it's easy to get them mixed up.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Don't worry Larry.. you can leave that up to the Installer. I hear he's pretty experienced when it comes to these engines coming in and out.
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Frank, the lower ones for the motor mounts were the ones I was referring too. It makes sense now, because I was trying to fit them on the stand.
Brendan, that's what I hear... Looking forward to seeing you in action. I used to be alot faster than I am now. Never thought 34 and carrying some extra weight around the middle would slow me down soooo much. Probably too much football, drugs, drinking and smoking. Poor diet. Lack of sleep. Former high stress jobs. Wife. Kids. Damn, that list gets long if you think about it too much
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Got a good bit done today. I'll post pics in the morning.
I realized as I was putting new idler and tensioner pulleys on that I hadn't ordered an A/C tensioner pulley. So, I pulled up ASA and went looking. There was nothing in there for the A/C compressor, hoses, pulley, nada... I got a couple more VINs from the suppository and tried them. Same thing. What gives? Anybody else run up on this? I've spent the last hour going thru every single section and I see nothing on the A/C portion of the climate control. I see all the ducting, heater controls, wiring, yada yada...
Frickin weird... Ideas?
EDIT: Tried a VIN from an early GenII with a 3.0L. It looks like the bracket is the same. Checked the A/C belt numbers and they match, so it should be good. Bizarre that it wasn't there on my VIN, or the other GenI VINs that I tried, for that matter. On the GenII VIN, it was in the exact section where it logically should be...
Edited by hazy_daze (07/13/10 11:36 PM)
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
Frickin weird... Ideas?
Yes. Here's what's really weird...... I keep reminding you to look in the FSM for stuff and you keep looking in ASA and All-Data. If you don't have a parts catalog, look on MontyMcV's site and see if it's there. If it's not, I can send you a file copy of the Raider parts catalog - most of it should apply to your truck.
Page 24-126 of the '89 Raider parts catalog shows the A/C bracket, adjuster, tensioner pulley and belt. The tensioner pulley number is MB568933.
[EDIT] In case you can't find the parts catalog and need it today, I just sent it to you via email.[EDIT]
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Edited by FrankR (07/14/10 05:49 AM)
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haztoys
Rock Warrior
Reged: 08/03/09
Posts: 629
Loc: Prescott AZ
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I'm running pullys from a 89 Dodge Caravan V6 on my 89 Raider ..A few washers under the pully and they worked great ...Hope that helps ...Great work
David
Hazardous Toys inc
Edited by haztoys (07/14/10 07:51 AM)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Frank, I didn't get your email. Gmail can be persnickety about attachments. It is on McV's site and I'm downloading it now. MB568933 is the number I came up with in ASA, as soon as I found a VIN that had all of the A/C systems in it.
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Here are the pics of the progress from yesterday...
Of note in this next pic, the exhaust manifold gaskets by Fel-pro are good enough in quality, but they are the same for both sides. OE lists 2 different P/N's. If you look closely, you can see the engine hanger bracket attached to the manifold on the far left is pushing up slightly on the heat shield portion of the gasket... No big deal, really, it just doesn't fit exactly the way OE did...
More to come today...
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Looks good! I see you painted the timing marks - you'll appreciate that later.
No fresh paint on the brackets and fan pulley? Larry, Larry, Larry.  Brendan won't know what's what. Looks like you'll need to go through the pick-a-bolt pile again to find the 4th fan clutch bolt.
You'll never know how much you'll appreciate the next suggestion unless you don't do it:
Temporarily install the lower intake (without the gaskets) and then install the upper intake (no gasket here, either) and make sure that the rear brace holes will line up. Adjust the brace if necessary and you'll avoid a major round of cussin' later.
Frank
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Yeah they were painted on the last engine. One of the first things I did after my Dad brought her to me.
I don't like them unpainted either, they'll be coming off today for some paint and a trip thru the oven to cook. I've got a new fan clutch pulley bracket coming from Mitsu. Couldn't resist at only $32 . I'll see what it looks like before deciding whether or not to paint it. And, since I don't have a clutch fan anymore, I can't use the OE bolts because they go too deep and hit on the backside. I haven't found any elsewhere on the truck that would work so I could order new OE. I need them to be about 7-8mm shorter... Oh well, shiny Rockfords will have to suffice...
I've followed your tip to the letter. I've put some spare lower intake gaskets down, then the lower intake and lightly tightened the bolts. Then, I put a spare upper plenum gasket on and the upper plenum and snugged the bolts holding it down. Then I put both front and rear brackets in place and torqued them. The front brace incorporates an engine hanger that I'll... er Brendan will be using to hang it on the hoist on installation.
I've spent the last while fiddling with fitment of a large case GM CS144 alternator in the OE alternator bracket. Big thanks to Russell (rxinhed) for fronting the spare bracket for me to cut on. That way if I don't like how it turns, it doesn't work, or it catches on fire, I can go back to the OE alternator with relative ease...
Stay tuned...
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Just another idiot...
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fhuzz
Rock Warrior
Reged: 04/26/01
Posts: 659
Loc: richmond hill, ontario
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Awesome work Hazy!!!Quote:
New distibutor...
Sorry for the hijack....
I stole the part number from your pic as I'm looking for a new dizzy... but it seems to be for the late 89 - 94 V6 3.0L...
I've googled and can't seem to find a source or part number for for the late 88 - early 89 V6 3.0L.
As a parts guy, would it be possible to get a number for the earlier V6 dizzy? (if they are even available, I don't know)
Glad to see the progress you're making....
Awesome!!!
dT
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'89 Monty LWB auto, 3rd row seating, 95SR rear + coils, genII UCA's and calipers/rotors, dual bouncies.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I may be going back to work tomorrow. Not sure just yet. Whenever I get back to work, I'll do some diggin'. Always glad to help out
If you get a chance, can you PM me the VIN for the vehicle in question?
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Just another idiot...
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
they'll be coming off today for some paint and a trip thru the oven to cook.
Quote:
I need them to be about 7-8mm shorter
Just put them in a vise and cut 'em off with a whizz wheel or a hacksaw and clean 'em up on a wire wheel brush.
I'm very interested in how the GM alternator works out.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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fhuzz
Rock Warrior
Reged: 04/26/01
Posts: 659
Loc: richmond hill, ontario
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Quote:
I may be going back to work tomorrow. Not sure just yet. Whenever I get back to work, I'll do some diggin'. Always glad to help out
If you get a chance, can you PM me the VIN for the vehicle in question?
I will pm you the vin.
No rush, whenever you get the chance is fine.
Thanks!
dT
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'89 Monty LWB auto, 3rd row seating, 95SR rear + coils, genII UCA's and calipers/rotors, dual bouncies.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I went by work and looked thru the catalog and found no matches. No listing whatsoever. Kind of odd for the aftermarket to not offer a distibutor, new or reman. I found a number in ASA and tried crossing it, no dice. Could there possibly be another application this dizzy was used in that may be more readily avaiable?
EDIT: Couldn't find the OE Mitsu P/N I had written down, so I looked it up again. It's MD126680. Wasn't sure whether you had that or not...
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Just another idiot...
Edited by hazy_daze (07/14/10 07:50 PM)
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
Frank, I didn't get your email. Gmail can be persnickety about attachments.
When I got home tonight, I found the problem was on my end..... not your gmail. The file is 37MB and I guess it didn't pass muster with bellsouth.net, because it was still in my outbox. At least you found it on Bill's site. It's really worth having as a reference.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Yeah, I think I'll maybe print it out at work so I can have a hard copy. I don't have a computer in the garage. I need to get or build me one...
Here's what I did today. It's already posted in the big case alternator thread, but I wanted it here as well...
I decided to try and leave the alternator mount intact and make the necessary changes to the alternator case itself. That way, so long as I carry an OE alternator with me, if I have issues on the trail I can swap the OE back in with no fitment issues. Also, if necessary, I can get a replacement GM alternator at any auto parts store and just swap the front half of the case. I may even do quick disconnects on the 2 wire harness that attaches on the back of the OE. If they'll be unused on the GM unit, then I won't worry about it, obviously...
I've got a little more fiddling on the lower bolt hole to get it to line up. But, front-to-back alignment is perfect, as verified with a laser (said like Dr. Evil )...
The unit and it's output sticker. 113 amps at 2k RPM's and 152 amps at 6k RPM's. For reference, that's alternator pulley speed, which is approximately 2.5-3 times the crank pulley speed. So, 2k at the alt is 600-700 engine RPM's and 6k alt speed is ~2k-2500 engine RPM's. Plenty amps...
The front view. You can see where I've elongated the holes already. The one on the right needs another 1/16"-3/32" more to line up just right. I can get the bolts in now, but it's not quite right...
I cut the back of this boss to align the pulley.
On the motor...
I'll get a couple more pics after I get it all lined up and bolted in...
I'm at a bit of a stopping point on assembly until I get some more parts that are on order. I went ahead and took vacation until Monday, so I may go ahead and seperate and reseal the transmission and transfer case to pass the time. They both need a MAJOR cleaning too...
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Nice Job! I really like what you're doing!
That thing almost looks ready to drop back in!!!
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I'm closer than I was when I started...
I've still got to clean and reseal the trans and tcase, maybe I'll get that done today. Want to get some stuff done on the front axle as well, install the locker, replace bearings, seals, pads and rotors...
I've gotten alot done, but sometimes it feels like I'll never be finished...
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Just another idiot...
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fhuzz
Rock Warrior
Reged: 04/26/01
Posts: 659
Loc: richmond hill, ontario
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Quote:
I went by work and looked thru the catalog and found no matches. No listing whatsoever. Kind of odd for the aftermarket to not offer a distibutor, new or reman. I found a number in ASA and tried crossing it, no dice. Could there possibly be another application this dizzy was used in that may be more readily avaiable?
EDIT: Couldn't find the OE Mitsu P/N I had written down, so I looked it up again. It's MD126680. Wasn't sure whether you had that or not...
Thanks for checking that out for me.
Guess I'm in search of a low mileage dizzy... haha.
I have caps so I do have that number but the stealer price is a bit out of reach right now...
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'89 Monty LWB auto, 3rd row seating, 95SR rear + coils, genII UCA's and calipers/rotors, dual bouncies.
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Quote:
I've gotten alot done, but sometimes it feels like I'll never be finished...
Just keep chipping away at it. You'll get there. I think your progress has been really fast so far
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Bringing this back from the dead.. was wondering if you gave up on this project or what!??! 
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Yeah, yeah f'er. Don't be too late. I'm gettin old and the compound goes on lockdown around 10pm...
Seriously, I've put 2 cases of Fat Tire in the beer cooler. Hope that'll be enough to get you sterted in the am... And Lisa's planning on feeding you very well
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
Yeah, yeah f'er. Don't be too late. I'm gettin old and the compound goes on lockdown around 10pm...
Seriously, I've put 2 cases of Fat Tire in the beer cooler. Hope that'll be enough to get you sterted in the am... And Lisa's planning on feeding you very well
At this point I may be coming first thing in the AM.. I'm still at work due to a friday 4:59 PM decision(life of an IT person) That and the paperwork for my company being bought is being signed on monday morning when I'm not here..
Only 2 cases!?! I'll let you man the camera to document progress.
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Only 2 to get started. There's plenty more, it's just not cold. Yet...
Let me know if it'll be tonite or in the morning. If it'll be in the morning, I might take Lisa to dinner and a movie or something. I also may have to go to Duluth to pick up parts in the morning, depending on where you want to start, engine-trans-tcase or the reverse...
I'll be away from the computer so text or call. Forgot I haven't pressure washed the undercarriage yet...
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Came to georgia to put the truck back together.. And we wnded up just taking more apart!! :-D
Missing a few major components:
You probably can't see the spindles are also off.. And the front diff is on the bench for an Aussie to be installed.
Time to start re assembly on everything!
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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You've got a day and half left....... stop drinkin' beer and start turnin' wrenches!
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Quote:
You've got a day and half left....... stop drinkin' beer and start turnin' wrenches!
Frank
How's this for progress??
 \
This had me laughing pretty good.. Tryin to be serious any benchpress a transfer case and this is what I have to deal with..
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Not enough - y'all better stay up late.
That locker looks familiar.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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We'll see what tomorrow brings we gave up on trying to getting the engine lined up with the trans.
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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You'll probably need to jack the front of the transmission a little, so the engine can be aligned before it rests on the mounts.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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I dun tolja and dun tolja and dun tolja how to do that.
Go buy two long bolts same oh thread as the bellhousing bolts and cut off the heads. Thread in lower bellhousing bolt holes. You now have alignment dowels for the tranny to engine long enough to do you some good...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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yeah yeah yeah... At that point I was pretty tired and about to hit the floor.
Got a fresh start in the morning..Once pulling the engine and putting it back in fresh we got it to fall right into place.
I'll let Larry take his thread back over again - But I will say the engine runs GREAT. I'll post up it's first start tomorrow..
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Yep. It runs perfect. Have a slight coolant leak that I'll be taking care of. The trans burped fluid out its rear seal because I was revving it pretty high while Brendan was adding the fluid to it. Perhaps too quickly combined with the high RPM's, I dunno. Doesn't really matter at this point, because that doesn't appear to be leaking anymore. I have quite a few parts on order from Mitsu that'll be in later this week. I'll be busy with work most nights this week and next with Sunday being my only day off. So, it'll likely be Labor day weekend before I get it all done and ready to drive. Got a heap of pictures but I'm tired and I'll post them later...
Tons o' thanks to Brendan for coming down and helping soooo much on this. He took all of my eccentricity in stride. Hard worker, fast and thorough too...
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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You're welcome! You built a good engine. I think Lisa might have put some Speed in my iced tea though.
Here's the first start:
Video
Next start after it got up to temperature and the new HLAs quieted down.
Video
So, who's next?
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Sounds good!
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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Nice!
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Got the coolant leak stopped. Trans fluid level has stabilized so no more leaky-deaky. Have a metric sh!t ton of loose ends to tie up before I put it back on the road again. I know I said I'd post pics. I lied. Been busy. I'll get them up soon...
Goal is to make it to HallowHarrie...
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Lets see the pictures!
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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I'll try to get them up this weekend. Been busy...
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Here are the pics in no particular order...
Breakfast on the morning after getting it in...
The night before...
Incontinence issues. These have since been remedied...
And the Aussie locker...
Now, if I could just find my tires...
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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oh no! Lisa caught me stuffing my face!
Hope you find those tires!
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Quote:
oh no! Lisa caught me stuffing my face!
Hope you find those tires!
Yeah. I must say that we ate well that weekend...
I had traded my 285/75/16's to one of my shop customers for a set of 315/75/16's that had been on his son's truck. The set that he showed me was a newer set than the ones I was getting. When I saw the ones I was getting, I changed my mind. But, earlier that day, he had sold my old tires. So, now he's trying to find me some Goodyear MT/R's for a deal. I'm thinking about going with Black Rock Yuma's in matte black alloy 16x8.5 with 3.75 BS. Like these, but in 6 lug obviously.
I think they'll be good looking...
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Those are going to look good!
And yes, I sure did eat well; Thanks again!
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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Codyaku
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 11/18/09
Posts: 93
Loc: Dana point
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Sick it makes me wanna rebuild my motor, but its like brand new Japanese import crate. so there is no need. I have small oil leaks on it and lost about a half of quart of oil of non stop freeway driving for 160 miles. Really cool
Also i put radiator stop leak in my crate to seal up a heater core leak. and i was wondering if that would clog the water jackets like urs was. ill replace the heater core sooner or later and do a complete flush of the system. Also is there a fluid i can run through that will clean it out good. or should i just run water through it??
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1990 Montero lwb, 3.0 V6, Custom bull bar, Completely stock on everything else. 186,000 miles
2" inch torsion bar lift. Conferr roof rack with homemade gutter mounts.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Water doesn't clean very well. You'll need something of an acid to get rid of deposits. You can use muriatic acid, but you have to be real careful with it and make sure you flush the system well. It eats copper and brass, as well as human skin...
If you're not comfortable with that, you could use a heavy duty radiator & cooling product of your choice...
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Just another idiot...
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eowen
Need a Spot
Reged: 09/02/10
Posts: 3
Loc: nashville tn
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omg,,, you have done what i want to start doing soon.
but i have no money at the moment,
poor truck burns oil leaks oil and worse of all i might be able to hit 70 mph going down hill
any idea what you have spent thus far?
mainly the engine and tran rebuiled and costs
and whats up with this >>>
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eowen
Need a Spot
Reged: 09/02/10
Posts: 3
Loc: nashville tn
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oh and by the way,, your montero is the same color as mine and year haha
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whats this do? "boom"
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Quote:
any idea what you have spent thus far?
Wow. I've thought about it, but I'm not sure I even want to know how much I've spent. A conservative guess right now would be in $5k-$6k range...
Cheaper than a new car?
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Just another idiot...
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slowlane
Need a Spot
Reged: 12/04/09
Posts: 22
Loc: WA
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How about just the engine work?
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1988 Raider SWB 2.6L, 5 speeds of awesomeness.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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What I had done would've cost the average Joe about $800. I didn't pay that much, though...
On a sidenote, I found some tires.
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Just another idiot...
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DRaider90
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 07/16/05
Posts: 2086
Loc: Charlotte, NC
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Quote:
What I had done would've cost the average Joe about $800. I didn't pay that much, though...
On a sidenote, I found some tires.
No reason now not to go to Uwharrie!
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88 Raider(Red):160k-Reman'd 2.6-5spd-Weber-SW Hubs-34x9.5 TSL-OffRd Pkg-1"Tbar-2"BL-CB
88 Raider(Silver):No 2.6/Bad KM145 Parts/Project
88 Montero(Brown):No 2.6,4.88s Parts/Project
4X4 STICKERS,SHIRTS,ETC:
4WD Stickers AT COST.
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Quote:
Quote:
What I had done would've cost the average Joe about $800. I didn't pay that much, though...
On a sidenote, I found some tires.
No reason now not to go to Uwharrie!
Except for that pesky work thing...
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Just another idiot...
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Oyaji_Jon
Roll Me Over
Reged: 11/01/01
Posts: 3269
Loc: Pebble Beach, CA
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Quote:
On a sidenote, I found some tires.
C'mon, Larry, you've got to give us more than that...
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73
-Jon
KJ6GVM
As seen on Expedition with TX plates: VEGETARIAN - An old Indian word for poor hunter
Grampa's Trooper
1974 FJ40
1987 FJ60
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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35x12.50-15 BFG KM2's on 15x8 Black Rock D-hole steels in Teflon matte black. I should be driving it by the 18th.
I hope to have all the little it-picky stuff ironed out by then. I was planning a dual battery setup with both batteries in the rear. But, Frank has kinda talked me out of it. Almost...
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Just another idiot...
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eowen
Need a Spot
Reged: 09/02/10
Posts: 3
Loc: nashville tn
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5k-6k,, yeah thats alot of work,,
since i last posted
it has gotten colder here in TN, more so at night and at the crack of dawn. when i leave for work
drove 26miles to work in my montero
got there no problem. "last week i did some math" i get 11 mpg....... that cant be normaly
anyways during lunch,, i went out to my montero and it was like someone got murdered. oil all over the place,, ground, tran' as far back as the rear axle......
so this weekend im going to pull the motor.
first question.. "of many im sure"
will a 6g72 dohc 24v bolt to that tranny, its the same as yours
no one can answer that question,, no one,,
the way i look at it, its a 6g72 block, just difrent heads. why wouldnt it bolt up? you know
i dont care about the other stuff i just want to know if it will bolt up.
if i cant find one thats in good shape im rebuilding the d!@$$ thing
so the 18th you say.. good luck post more pictures haha
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whats this do? "boom"
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Oyaji_Jon
Roll Me Over
Reged: 11/01/01
Posts: 3269
Loc: Pebble Beach, CA
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Quote:
35x12.50-15 BFG KM2's on 15x8 Black Rock D-hole steels in Teflon matte black. I should be driving it by the 18th.
I hope to have all the little it-picky stuff ironed out by then. I was planning a dual battery setup with both batteries in the rear. But, Frank has kinda talked me out of it. Almost...
This sounds ! I can't wait to see it.
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73
-Jon
KJ6GVM
As seen on Expedition with TX plates: VEGETARIAN - An old Indian word for poor hunter
Grampa's Trooper
1974 FJ40
1987 FJ60
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justice
Roll Me Over
Reged: 02/06/00
Posts: 3163
Loc: Coastal N Carolina, USA
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Quote:
5k-6k,, yeah thats alot of work,,
since i last posted
it has gotten colder here in TN, more so at night and at the crack of dawn. when i leave for work
drove 26miles to work in my montero
got there no problem. "last week i did some math" i get 11 mpg....... that cant be normaly
anyways during lunch,, i went out to my montero and it was like someone got murdered. oil all over the place,, ground, tran' as far back as the rear axle......
so this weekend im going to pull the motor.
first question.. "of many im sure"
will a 6g72 dohc 24v bolt to that tranny, its the same as yours
no one can answer that question,, no one,,
the way i look at it, its a 6g72 block, just difrent heads. why wouldnt it bolt up? you know
i dont care about the other stuff i just want to know if it will bolt up.
if i cant find one thats in good shape im rebuilding the d!@$$ thing
so the 18th you say.. good luck post more pictures haha
You would probably get more info if you started a thread specific to your question, but the answer is yes, the DOHC block will both to the montero tranny. The rest, such as engine management (ECU etc) and exhaust, you'll have to figure out on your own...
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99 Gen 2.5, fixing, awaiting build
89 SWB- 33's, ARB Front locker, SR rear locker/axle, SR F brakes, winch, WST Offroad Armor all Around, 2.85 Aussie T-case Gears
Sold: (2) 95 SR's, 86 SWB, 90LWB, 91 LWB
-Can Change a timing belt in my sleep..
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Drove it to and from work today. Uneventful. Only issues to sort are:
No O/D.
Autometer Water & Trans Temp gauges aren't registering.
Needs an alignment after installing the GenII box.
Weld on the aux trans cooler bracket so it can be mounted.
Figure out why, when I ground the base timing plug, it arcs. It's already melted one of my test leads... Ungrounded it's running at 18-20* BTDC at idle.
Then, there's a heap of interior stuff to do in the coming months...
More pics forthcoming...
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Scratch that. Now I have no headlights, I'm blowing fuses in the aux fuse panel like crazy. Got something bad wrong, maybe it's just a pinched wire somewhere...
Oh, the joys...
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Just another idiot...
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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After visual inspection and some test light and meter probing, I found 3 blown fuses, 2 burnt thru wires, a bad relay and a fuse panel that was damaged from melting. Replaced the fuses, repaired the wires, replaced the relay and fuse panel and voila. I have headlights back and my Autometer gauges register. I had a couple wires backwards somehow, which had overloaded a few circuits causing the aforementioned damages. I guess all's well that ends well.
Still need to figure out O/D and check if the base timing plug still arcs or not, but I'll save that stuff for tomorrow night...
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Just another idiot...
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Oyaji_Jon
Roll Me Over
Reged: 11/01/01
Posts: 3269
Loc: Pebble Beach, CA
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That's all well and good, Larry, but "forthcoming" isn't good enough. I need pics...
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73
-Jon
KJ6GVM
As seen on Expedition with TX plates: VEGETARIAN - An old Indian word for poor hunter
Grampa's Trooper
1974 FJ40
1987 FJ60
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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Glad to hear she's on the ground and running... On the overdrive, I could swear I remember plugging in the wire for it, but might not be a bad idea to check on that. I was playing with the routing on the O2 sensor and might have unplugged it...
Did you figure out your fan issue?
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Patience, Jon...
I'll check that Brendan, thanks. Main cooling fan works great. The trans cooler fan will go on after I weld the cooler bracket on and mount the cooler.
Just got a call from my alignment guy that it's done. So, I can strike that from the list...
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Just another idiot...
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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If that's not it.. maybe the temp sensors on that Tstat housing are reversed? Not like that was confusing or anything. I'd ground out the trans one just temporarily just in case.
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Yeah. We had pictures, but I think that those just further confused us...
I'll check the connection at the trans and if that doesn't work, then I'll ground the wire to see...
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Just another idiot...
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tbonesdam
Mudrunner
Reged: 07/27/01
Posts: 284
Loc: SLC, UTAH
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WOW SWEET rebuid!!! Nice photos of the whole process!! Way to go! Georgia style!
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SELF MADE CHOP TOP W/OG. HARD TOP.
87 5 speed 2.6 less Balance shafts.
Raider 88 Rust-O-leumed Body.
Herculined Interior.
Rust-proofed Frame.(Eastwood Stuff)
Prothane Bushings.
33x12.50.
3in. Body Lift.
2in. SHackle Lift + Torsion Crank.
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Terry! are you in gainesville, or still on the ski slopes? pm me and I'll send you my cell and we can get together. I like in Oakwood now.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Tried to call the cell number I have for you. It no worky. PM me your new cell so I can call you. Lisa and I are thinking about doing a shakedown run on my truck this weekend. May do a couple scenic trails. Likely Sunday as that's my only day off this weekend...
Thanks for the compliment, Terry
EDIT: Oh yeah, I got O/D working by grounding the wire. May just leave it that way, as the switch looks rather useless. If I'm reading it right, all it does is block O/D until coolant temp gets to 122*. Which is about a minute of driving.
Edited by hazy_daze (10/21/10 10:32 AM)
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RECON45
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 07/20/09
Posts: 1216
Loc: Statesville, NC
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Whats the status on this project? Is it done or at least to the point it can be at URE in the Spring? I went through every post to see all the work done again. All the parts you got and it was less than $800? Thats very impressive. I hope my timing belt project is much simplar than this.
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91 Montero LS "RECON", Auto, Dual Bouncy Seats, SR rear axle with air locker, 2" Suspension lift, 2" Body Lift, GENII front IFS, 32" MT tires
www.lifehope.us.com
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Damn, I've been real slack at finishing this thread up. Hate it when people leave me hangin...
Yeah, it's done. Runs like a top. Put 35x12.50R15 BFG KM2's on 15x8 Satin Black steel wheels with 3.5" BS. I have a couple thousand miles on it so far. It was uneventful until I hit a deer in the middle of the night coming back from winning a chili cook-off at a friend's house. Folded the driver's fender down onto the tire, almost stopping it at 50mph. Miraculously, it didn't cut it or flat-spot it. The impact shorted out some wires that started a small fire. I got stopped, put it out, rigged the wiring back up so I could get the family home. It sat for a couple weeks while I gathered parts. Russell and MarkG helped me with those (thanks a ton guys!)
Then, my daughters car shat the bed. And she told me her and her husband were expecting. July 26th is the due date. So, my rig took the back burner while I overhauled some of the systems on the 93 Accord I bought her as a college grad present. Can't have my first grandkid stranded with a broked!ck car. That ate up a couple weeks.
Last Monday, I was off work. It had already snowed a heap, then sleeted on top of that. So, if I was going to be mobile in the mess to come, I had to get her back roadworthy. And I did. Fabbed up a couple brackets to more solidly mount the Taurus fan. Did the body work. Tidied up some electrical and vroom-vroom. She performed flawlessly thru all the snow, ice and rain. It was alot of fun to be back on the road again. I'll get some current pictures added soon. I'll also document the brackets I made for mounting the fan, in case anybody's interested in having me make some more.
As far as URE goes, I've had schedule or financial conflicts come up everytime I've planned on attending. So, I ain't saying nuthin right now
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Just another idiot...
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RECON45
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 07/20/09
Posts: 1216
Loc: Statesville, NC
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no pics = never happened
I would like the see the pimp tires and wheels and fan bracket.
O yeah congrats on being a future grand dad.
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91 Montero LS "RECON", Auto, Dual Bouncy Seats, SR rear axle with air locker, 2" Suspension lift, 2" Body Lift, GENII front IFS, 32" MT tires
www.lifehope.us.com
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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You didn't tell me your daughter was expecting!! Getting a couple additions to the family eh?
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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hazy_daze
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/22/07
Posts: 4609
Loc: Athens, Georgia
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Here are the pics I promised a month ago. I've been busy. And sick. Sue me
The deer damage fixed. Don't have any other pics of the damage except for on my cell phone. I have no idea how to get them uploaded to PB, so repaired pics will have to do...
Made a permanent mount for the auxiliary-auxiliary trans cooler.
Did the lower part with bedliner. Only have one side done, may get the P/S done this weekend.
The whole thing.
140 Amp GM CS144 alternator mounted and working perfect.
Full shot of the engine bay.
Fan controller and the relays to operate the LED headlights.
8274 Winch mount. Still playing with bumper ideas to build off of it.
My buddy with the plasma table that cut it all out surprised me with the Mitsu diamonds. I thought it was cute...
I've got almost 5k miles on it since the rebuild. I've done a couple oil changes and settled on 15W40 Delo and a quart of Lucas with an OE Mitsu filter. I like the way it sounds, zero valve train noise even on cold startup in subfreezing temps. The fuel economy has been getting better as the engine continues the breakin process. So far, it's up to 13.82 mpg and if it stays there, I'll be quite pleased.
Thanks for everybody's suppport thru this ordeal. It's been a learning experience, fer shur...
The only unresolved issue is the timing ground plug. It will melt whatever I use to ground it to set the base timing. I mean, literally, melt it... Anybody got any ideas on that one? I've done the timing by ear & feel (ie listening for ping...) so I'm not terribly concerned about the timing itself. But, I would like it to be righter than it is. And I got this fancy ass timing light I can't frickin use...
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Just another idiot...
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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On the timing connector, that should be the white/yellow stripe wire in a two wire connector, only one position occupied, and it connects to nothing but the ecu. There are some other connectors near there, but nothing that should be natively unconnected.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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87Montero
Trail Leader
Reged: 11/19/03
Posts: 5576
Loc: Greenville, SC
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I'd push your like button.
That looks great! Glad to see some pictures of those new tires!
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1999 Mitsu Montero - Fully Loaded
'92 Isuzu Pickup: V6,4x4,5spd,TJM Front Bumper,9k Winch, DOR Rear Bumper, RR Hubs, 3" Calmini Lift, 4.77s, 33" TSLs
2008 Saturn Sky Redline - 3 Pedals and a turbo :)
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