FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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I installed my front Aussie Locker today and thought I'd post this as a guide for anyone who follows. This is the first time I've done this job, so if anyone sees an error, please let me and those who read this know:
First, some preliminaries that I'll assume anyone trying this already knows how to do:
1) Drain the gear oil
2) Remove the front differential cover
3) Remove the tires
4) Remove the brake calipers and hang them
5) Remove the hubs
6) Remove the steering knuckles
7) Remove the drive axles
8) Withdraw the passenger side inner axle about 6 inches
9) Remove the relay rod
Now you're looking at this, but note that it's not necessary to unbolt the inner axle tube as I did  :
Loosen the four bolts pictured above and remove the bearing caps - note which side they came from and which end is up for re-installation in the same location. Now you see what's under each cap - the outer bearing race - and a side bearing adjusting spacer is to the outside of each cap/race:
Carefully pry out the differential case assembly - the FSM shows the use of 2 hammer handles, but that's only feasible if you have the differential carrier completely removed from the truck - perhaps I should have removed the carrier and put the entire assembly on the workbench, but I thought it might be easier like this - more on that later. Be very careful as the unit gets loose enough to come out - it's heavy and it is very important to capture the side bearing adjusting spacers and side bearing outer races so you know which one of each goes back on which side::
Now you can take the case assembly to the workbench - again, keeping the bearing caps, spacers and outer races separate:
There are a lot of pictures, so I'll break this up in several posts.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Mark the ring gear and differential case flange edge with mating marks so you know where to clock the gear on reassembly:
For ring gear removal, the use of an impact wrench is almost a necessity, but it can be done in a vise with hand tools. Remove the ring gear and you have this:
This lock pin holds the pinion shaft and must be driven far enough to clear the shaft - don't drive it all the way out - just far enough to clear the shaft:
Now you have this:
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Drive out the pinion shaft. Pull out the upper and lower pinion gears and cupped pinion washers and you have this:
Pull out the side gears and note that each gear has a thrust spacer behind it - those will be used later - for now, examine them closely.... if they're worn much, get new ones - because they will affect your center gap on the Aussie Locker, which could void your warranty. Mine show very little wear, so I'll reuse them and check the gap after the locker is installed:
Completely grease all surfaces of an axle gear from the kit and install it using the thrust spacer in the previous picture:
Grease a spacer, note which way it's oriented and place it on top of the gear:
Grease a cam gear, orient it with the half-bore toward the center of the case and place it on the stack - press the stack to squeeze out the excess grease:
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Install the opposite side in the same manner - here you can see the thrust spacer from the original gear set placed on the new gear hub:
Align the cross shaft bore halves:
Insert the new cross shaft from the kit, noting proper orientation of the hole for the lock pin - I found it helpful to insert the ice pick to keep good spacing of the cam gears to aid installation of the cross shaft:
Drive the lock pin through the cross shaft and seat it as far as it will go - it'll bottom out and you'll feel it when it's seated:
Frank
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Make certain you have access to all four spring slots - adjust the orientation if necessary:
Grease and install a pin in each pin bore with the pin step exposed:
Grease and install a spring over each pin step and push the spring into the recess as far as it will go:
Measure the gap down the center of the locker assembly - it must be between 0.145 and 0.176". Record the number and keep it. If you have a warranty claim, you'll be asked for this measurement. Feeler gauges might work better for this measurement, but mine appears to be near the center of the range at about 0.164":
Now set the case assembly aside while you tend to some not-so-fun chores..... more after dinner.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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LandRaider
Forum Moderator
Reged: 09/04/01
Posts: 8409
Loc: Ocean Springs, MS
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Thanks for writing this up Frank. Please let us know how it works out.
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1986powerram50
Rock Warrior
Reged: 01/10/08
Posts: 983
Loc: Kansas
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Thanks for the write up Frank. This otta be archived/linked in the important threads thread.
By now the cobwebs otta be almost gone off of the G-Raider 
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--keRby
Ad Inexplorta
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FrankR
Web Wheeler
Reged: 02/01/04
Posts: 10225
Loc: Columbia, SC
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Will do, Curtis - and I trust you'll proof-read the text for correct differential terminology. 
Now for the not-so-fun stuff that you certainly don't want to overlook, or you'll be sorry when your locker eats bolts or chews up a pinion gear......
The ring gear bolt sealant used by the factory is some tough stuff and you have to clean the threads in the ring gear. One pass with the M10x1.25 tap is not enough - it'll take at least 3 passes to get them clean:
Now clean the ring gear bolt threads on a wire wheel brush:
Spray brake cleaner into the ring gear bolt holes and clean the bolts with it as well....... blow them dry with compressed air..... then clean the ring gear backside and the case flange to make certain there's nothing that will inhibit a good flat clamp so the gear runs straight and true:
Place the ring gear on the case flange with the previously made mating marks aligned:
Turn the case assembly over and run in 2 or 3 bolts to draw the ring gear tight to the case. Use a liberal amount of RED High Strength Permatex thread locker or equivalent on the bolts and run all bolts in snug:
If you don't have a large vise, you can use a WorkMate or any suitable device to torque the fasteners, but make certain you protect the case assembly - torque the bolts to 58-65 lb-ft:
Now set the case assembly aside and clean the carrier cover flange before installing the case assembly.
Frank
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'89 G-Raider Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 155k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, 165A alt., Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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motero
Rock Warrior
Reged: 01/21/04
Posts: 843
Loc: Wittmann, AZ
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I can smell the gear lube and grease just from your pictures.
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99 Montero....15mpg!
02 Jetta TDI....48mpg!
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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I'm not dead sure, but I call the shaft you call a pinion shaft a side gear shaft.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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