MCMILO
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 01/22/11
Posts: 30
Loc: Mobile, Alabama
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I got PB for my car business so they will be up for a long time but if you want to host them elsewhere it's cool with me. As a stroke to my ego, you could credit me. :)
Here is the professionally made tool if you can find it.
Tool for holding the crankshaft pulley and holding the camshaft pulley.
No I do not know where to get it, sorry. :cry:
Here is you timing belt tensioner tool (find on ebay for less than $20)
Here's a How-to diagram for the tensioner.
Also....very cool for those pesky valve guide seals, a mitsubishi valve spring compressor and a link of where to buy. ($75....what a bargain)
http://www.euroexportinc.com/store/tools/mitsubishi-4g63-valve-spring-compressor.html
MORE TO COME... 
Edited by MCMILO (02/07/11 02:52 PM)
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MCMILO
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 01/22/11
Posts: 30
Loc: Mobile, Alabama
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Okay..now another problem. The crankshaft pulley is stuck. I've soaked it with WD40 for 2 days and used a half can of CRC Freeze Off so far today.
The 3 arm puller is as tight as I can get it and it's center "push" bolt is bending from the pressure. I actually had to use my holder bar to keep from rotating the motor.
Any ideas? 
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off-roader
Mitsubishi Forum Moderator
Reged: 01/16/00
Posts: 15504
Loc: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Okay..now another problem. The crankshaft pulley is stuck. I've soaked it with WD40 for 2 days and used a half can of CRC Freeze Off so far today.
The 3 arm puller is as tight as I can get it and it's center "push" bolt is bending from the pressure. I actually had to use my holder bar to keep from rotating the motor.
Any ideas?
WD40 should not be used as a penetrating oil to loosen bolts. It's primary use is to displace water.
I'd start by using a proper penetrating oil.
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Off Roader
96SR (3.15:1 xcase, 35's), 89 V6 SWB (33's)
96SR Build Up Thread
Old web page
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12705
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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If you used a puller on it, the pulley is now dead, due to broken adhere on the rubber insert, so cut it off. May have the same problem with the timing belt sprocket, but they are powdered metal and can be drilled and split off.
PB Blaster is a very good penetrant, as is Mouse Milk. Try some sharp blows to the pulley near the center...
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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MCMILO
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 01/22/11
Posts: 30
Loc: Mobile, Alabama
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Quote:
WD40 should not be used as a penetrating oil to loosen bolts. It's primary use is to displace water.
I'd start by using a proper penetrating oil.
I know, hence the name WD. That's why I'm using CRC Freeze off, it IS a penetrant.
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MCMILO
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 01/22/11
Posts: 30
Loc: Mobile, Alabama
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Quote:
If you used a puller on it, the pulley is now dead, due to broken adhere on the rubber insert, so cut it off. May have the same problem with the timing belt sprocket, but they are powdered metal and can be drilled and split off.
PB Blaster is a very good penetrant, as is Mouse Milk. Try some sharp blows to the pulley near the center...
Not sure what you mean about "dead", the pulley isn't deformed and hasn't moved...it's still stuck to the TB sprocket as far as I can tell. I'm not cutting anything off right now but thanks for another "short-cut".
I'm looking for some ideas as to something I may be missing in the removal process or is this common for it to stick like this?
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12705
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Usual to stick. Reinstall with anti seize.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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MCMILO
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Reged: 01/22/11
Posts: 30
Loc: Mobile, Alabama
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MontyMcV
Trail Leader
Reged: 06/04/03
Posts: 7046
Loc: Cleve-burg OH USA
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I made my tool with the swing arm design. I can use it for cam gears as well.
How s the CRC compared to Blaster? I'd spray liberally with PB, especially inside there. Then tappity-tap the pulley in from the front and around where it's stuck. Reach in there with a big drift maybe.
Funny how yours is stuck. I have done three now up here in the heart of the rust belt and not had that problem.
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Big Truck 2: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 94k, stock for now
Big Truck 1: 95, MT, >Gone<
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 29k miles!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
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Mad_Scientist
Roll Me Over
Reged: 04/25/06
Posts: 3587
Loc: An Englishman in Huntersville ...
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I have used a puller on mine before. It did not damage the pulley, but the crank sprocket was stuck to the pulley. You then run the risk of destroying the crank sensor. I got lucky. I had to use some gentle heat to get the two apart. Mud was the culprit.
Eddy, does the Gen2 pulley have a rubber insert?
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'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...
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