erikrempel
Need a Spot
Reged: 02/28/08
Posts: 5
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ok, I have an 87 d50, I also have a mighty max sport parts car. both are 5 speeds. I was going to take the head off the mighty max (apparently its rebuilt) and do a port/polish on it. I've also been looking at a weber carb kit.
I was also thinking of machining the deck surface of the head to increase compression ratio... is this a plausable mod on this engine? or are the pistons/valves too close? anyone know the stock c/r?
are there any other cheap/free mods to increase performance?
I am also wondering about a posi rear end, what does the mighty max sport come with that makes it sport? does it have a posi? is there a cheap one available?
i'm very new to this engine. appreciate your insight.
Erik R.
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whitelespaul
Wheeler
Reged: 04/08/07
Posts: 220
Loc: M'ville, Georgia
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Welcome to the board
If the stock carb is working, I wouldn't change it.
Header, K & N stock replacement filter and free flowing exhaust. The money you'd spend on a Weber could buy you a new non-jet head from Clearwater Cylinder head service in FLA. Don't bother porting the stock head if you have jet valves. There is enough to take .005 off the head, if you must, but the gains would not be noticed in the seat of your pants "Butt Dyno". You can put big valves in for more flow but they use a non stock keeper, chevy IIRC.
For the posi, swap in a montero dif from a model with the orange door jamb tag and headlight washers. 4.625 ratio for 5 speed, 4.22 ratio for auto. The extra gear does even more for performance than your engine mods.
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83 mitsu flat bed 2.6l weber, 88 auto tranny, 2" body lift, 4.625 LSD, 235/85-16E mudders (33 x 9.50).
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12704
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Aren't any.
See turbo bible post. Stock CR is 8.7:1. Go much higher and you're on premium fuel.
If it has a posi, it'll have a label on the back of the pumpkin, and on the dside door frame. Not likely in the pickup, but possible, AFAIK. If you have leaf springs, the posi rear axle from a 4cyl Montero/Raider up to about 88 should fit close.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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Kevin C
Trail Leader
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6033
Loc: No where in particular
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I used to race a NA 2.6 engine and got good results with the following mods.
The head can take up to an .040" cut.. Thats pretty severe and you need to re-time your cam afterwards. I generally went with a .025 cut.
Porting the head does help, dont go wild, just a cleanup of the valve bowl and smooth out the sharp edge on the short side radius.
The factory carb is OK but it is bit small, the air cleaner is a bit restrictive as well.
The factory exhaust is also quite restrictive. The factory split Y exhaust manifold head pipe is a good design for a wide torque band. A 4 in one header if properly set up will get you more peak power. The rest of the factory system is way way too small.
A fresh valve job may be the best bang for the buck. Most intake valves have signifigant deposits on the backside and poor flow at low lifts from pounding out of the valve face.
Make sure everything else is working. The distributor is a great place to start, the advance mechanism gets sticky with age.
Back in the day (1979) Dodge printed a 2.6 hop up manual. Most of my recomendations come from that.
The factory cam is fine for the street.
The motor will make more power but it wont be a night and day differance.
Kevin C
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87 Dodge
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Kevin C
Trail Leader
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 6033
Loc: No where in particular
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http://home.comcast.net/~kevincar1/colt-a.pdf
A poor copy of a very old performance manual for the 2.6 engine.
Kevin
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87 Dodge
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MontyMcV
Trail Leader
Reged: 06/04/03
Posts: 7045
Loc: Cleve-burg OH USA
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Mike_c on SQC talked about something with the way the exhaust mani mates up and grinding some rings off for better flow, then use 2x gaskets. I haven't taken mine off yet to look at more. You likely know what this means. Is it a SQ/turbo thing, or a 2.6 thing?
I pulled the PDF, did a quick clean it up for the fax number that was on it and other image noise, and posted up to mine. Didn't think you'd mind. Pull yourself a clean copy of course.
Ride On,
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Big Truck 2: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 94k, stock for now
Big Truck 1: 95, MT, >Gone<
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 29k miles!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
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erikrempel
Need a Spot
Reged: 02/28/08
Posts: 5
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thanks for your posts guys
is there a link to these clearwater heads?
I find it hard to believe that a 2.6 with 109hp stock, cant be made much more powerful enough to feel faster in the seat... i'd expect that just a few flow enhancers/carb would make at least 140 or better.
I havent been able to find any websites with aftermarket parts for these trucks, anyone know any?
one more question sorry, whats the stock ratio in the rear?
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dylanb
Wheeler
Reged: 01/06/05
Posts: 197
Loc: Atlanta, GA
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3.909 is stock for the pickups
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85 4x4 Pickup, 267K, 4d55 Conversion, Sway-A-Ways, Dual Batteries
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12704
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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This is about all I ever found for n/a monties.
RPW in Oz.
Yes, I suppose you could get 140hp out of the 2.6 in n/a mode with a lot of bucks. There's a twin Weber sidedraft mani floating around (Oz again) that will take a pair of 44DCOE's, or 4 ITB's and injection.
Or, you can put $1000 worth of starion parts on it and build torque and hp in street drivable rpm ranges, and see nearly 200hp in stock form. You won't see 140 n/a hp at any reasonable rpm range from 159ci.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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erikrempel
Need a Spot
Reged: 02/28/08
Posts: 5
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so i guess just slapping a turbo on would be the cheapest way to give the thing some reasonable pickup. my neighbor has a small one that would work perfect I think. can you supply enough fuel with the stock carb for a turbo?
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