pmontero
Roll Me Over
Reged: 07/12/01
Posts: 3167
Loc: Peachtree City, GA USA
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Hi,
Big Blue was kind enough to type up and share a detailed description of the preferred way to start up, run and break-in a freshly rebuilt engine. I thought it was worth sharing with the board since it covers any gas auto engine.
Here you go:
The "accepted" methods of engine start-up/run-in/break-in as as follows; (in "MY" world)
1. Once started check timing and idle speed and run at higher idle than normal to promote oiling to camshafts, as they have some of the highest running loads and the poorest form of oiling (splash).
2. Once operating temp is reached, shut down, allow to cool, while checking for leaks, and giving everything a very good once over, and drain cooling system of water (after determining that there are no leaks) and go to 50/50 water antifreeze.
3. While it is cooling down, change oil and filter, staying with 30weight Non detergent oil (same used for start-up), for at least the next 600 miles. Adjust valves as needed.
4. Retorque fasteners as needed and check routing of wiring harnesses, plug wires etc, for chafe areas, and pontential temp related problems.
5. After this, hit the road at varing speeds starting with a trip around the block, and moving in larger loops from "home" while varying speeds and loads on the engine. Acclelerating the engine will heat the cylinders and rings, so it needs to be done in cycles, accelerate and then coast, both in moderation, allowing the components to heat cycle in a controlled cycle. Stay away from hard, or long accelation, steep or long hills. Make sure the tires have the proper air in them. No more than 1/3 throttle for 500 miles,1/2 throttle for the next 200 miles, then moving to no more than 3/4 throttle after 700 miles. Normal operation after 1500miles.
6. Oil changes at 600miles after the start-up change, and then again at 1500, then moving to the normal change interval.
7. Check fluid levels often, and ensure that all clamps are checked and tightened as hoses take a set, check operation of all accessories and function of all accessories attached to motor, to ensure that everything is as intended, and such things as vacuum leaks thru the A/C heating system don't create a lean condition.
8. Scan engine electronics and check for pontential problems, or faults. If reusing the o2 sensor scope test it for rich/lean slopes and verfiy proper condition and rise in ms.
9. If headgaskets were problematic, cat and o2 sensors need replacement.
10. Use cardboard in front of radiator to check fan clutch and verify proper lock-up before using interstate hi-ways. Use digital thermometer to verify radiator function (check for plugged/blocked core) before hiway use.
11. Return to customer, with warranty papers, and spend as long as needed to make sure that they follow these common sense guidelines. Most shops that I have worked for/run/owned will keep the rig and drive it for the first 400 to 600 miles. Depends on rig and owner ie. Ferrari vs. GEO and $1500.00 repair vs. $150,000.00 repair. I've done plenty of both.
Kary
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'87 Montero Diesel
'98 Porsche Boxster Electric
and more...
Greasology
NotPetroleum
Edited by DougH (01/03/05 03:32 PM)
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AcidophilusRex
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 04/11/01
Posts: 1030
Loc: Grand Junction, Tarnatia
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...I guess I'm not sure I buy into the "non-detergent oil" bit. I'd think you'd want a detergent oil to help flush out all the bits of crap floating around in there...non-detergent oils tend to let that crap settle into nooks and crannies, just waiting to dislodge in one big chunk or glob later on.
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fasteddy
Web Wheeler
Reged: 01/30/01
Posts: 12707
Loc: Flat Creek, GA
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Every good mech. I've ever talked to also says use 30w non detergent oil for first startup. Most of them say start it up and let it idle for about one good cigarette, then drain the startup oil and refill with 30w non-det. oil again. It's all about wearing off the minor high spots during breakin, and not gouging them off with excessive loading. Ring seating is also very important for longevity and long term good power, and I like to make several top gear accelerations from about 30mph to about 65, with a closed throttle decel between each for cool down to put a little load on the rings and help them seat a little faster.
I agree with all of the other suggestions as to checking cooling and mixtures - overheat and lean out will kill a new motor's potential life.
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"If you can't be a good influence, don't worry, you can still be a horrid example."
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