Jay Ayala
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 07/15/02
Posts: 1217
Loc: Hillsboro, OR.
|
|
Hey Guys: Welcome to another "Salvaged" installment.
(previous "Salvaged" threads) Salvaged my inhibitor switch Salvaged My Turn Signal Flasher Salvaged my Power Window Operation
Last time I documented how I "Salvaged my Power Window Operation!" This time around, as the topic states, I'm documenting the Headlight Washer Pump restoration. This is my documentation on how I "Salvaged my Headlight Washer Pump!" The vehicle I fixed is my 1989 Dodge Raider. If your headlight washer pump isn't working like it is supposed to, you might benefit from this thread.
Back Story: Recently on this forum there has been posts about faulty headlight washer pumps. It sparked my curiosity about mine. Thanks to a recent reply posted by pmontero, I've successfully fixed my pump and it is working properly once again.
The fix: First like always, I did a little bit of homework by looking up information on this forum and in my manufactures manual. Once I knew where all the parts were located I was ready to proceed. Suggested by pmontero in another thread, my initial test was to see if it was functioning in the first place. I turned the headlights on and pressed the headlight washer button. Nothing happened. So I took the headlight washer reservoir off complete with pump and detached the hose and electrical harness. Then I removed the pump and tested it with a couple of wires directly to the battery in short bursts. There is one wire, which is blue with a white stripe, and one that is solid blue. I touched the positive to the striped wire and the negative to the solid wire. I felt the wires warm up slightly, but it didn't function in the least. Out of curiosity I noticed that there were three (3) bent metal tabs holding it together. I straightened them carefully and gently pulled out the internal pieces with a small pair of pliers.
   
I quickly realized that there were a couple of broken plastic pieces. I thought well, it isn't detrimental to the operation but I'll glue it back together anyway. Upon inspection of the internal parts I came to the realization that water was somehow getting into the circuitry. So I decided that it would be a good idea to clean off any of the rust that has built up over the years. Which I did. Also, It was turning very stubbornly so I sprayed the internal parts with a little WD-40 more for lubrication purposes then to keep water off. There was a layer of dirt that built and covered the entire surface of where the internal magnets almost touch the spinner. So I cleansed it off. Also, inside the wire harness, the two posts were caked with grime so I removed the posts out of the plastic harness and wire brushed them. Once the posts were clean I re-inserted them into the plastic harness and reassembled the headlight washer pump.
   
I quickly did a test to the battery again and it worked just like new. I reinstalled the pump into the reservoir and the reservoir back into the Raider. I used my air compressor to make sure there wasn't any cogged lines or anything. Once I determined the path was clear, I made all of the appropriate connections and tested it with the headlights turned on. It took a few tries but the lines were dry and had to be refilled with washer fluid. Now my headlights are getting washed on demand without any problems.
Conclusion: The fix was pretty easy, I used a 10mm socket to remove the reservoir and pump. A set of pliers to release the hose clamp. WD-40 to lube the interior, Krazy glue for the broken-cracked plastic parts. A wire brush to remove the rust and clean the dirt of the spinner, and the electrical contact posts in the wire harness. The fix took me about 30 minutes spread over 3 hours, it kept raining on and off and there wasn't any room in the garage. Overall it wasn't that hard. It works great now, and I didn't spend any money to fix it. Just took me a while.
As always, Thanks for reading.
Jay
-------------------- 89 Raider - V6, Automatic, rear LSD, A/C Retrofit, Cruise Control Retrofit.
Ayala: Pronounciation - Eye All Ahh!
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
|
My friend modified the spary nozzles so instead of hitting the headlights...
THEY JUST SPRAYED FORWARD !!!
Stoplights, pedestrians, and the summer heat all make for a good time
|
Kevin C
Roll Me Over
Reged: 05/20/00
Posts: 4965
Loc: Portland OR, USA
|
|
Jay,
How did you get the bearing off the end of th emotor shaft? Yours looks pretty well frozen in place.
Mine only came apart in a lathe... And as the cut got thin it spit apart from the tension of the corrosion!
I machined up a new bearing to complete the job.
Most every failure is from water past the seal seizing the bearing and fouling the comutator.
Every used unit I have seen looked just like yours!
Kevin C
-------------------- 87 Raider, 2.6 Turbo-Intercooled, lockup auto tranny, 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust, 2.85 T case, LSD front diff, Torsen rear diff, V6 brakes and front axles, Dual suspension seats = lots of fun.
|
Geophie
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 08/21/00
Posts: 1255
Loc: Elkins/Goshen, AR USA
|
|
Excellent, now i can get to stabbin the rear window spitter on mine. Damn thing won't even cough up one drop (although it could be a dirty dash switch, too).
-------------------- 1991 4dr RS, ATK 3.0, auto, hacked mercilessly into a pickup truck and used regularly now.
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
|
looks good, I'm going to have to check this out.
|
pmontero
Roll Me Over
Reged: 07/12/01
Posts: 3075
Loc: Atlanta, GA USA
|
|
Jay,
You da man! I think all of us Gen I owners are going to have to learn to be creative with repairing existing parts. Eventually, we're not going to be able to order parts at any price...
Powell
-------------------- '87 Mitsubishi Montero SWB Project Turbo Diesel
'98 Porsche Boxster EV project
http://www.greasology.org
|
Jay Ayala
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 07/15/02
Posts: 1217
Loc: Hillsboro, OR.
|
|
quote: Originally posted by Kevin C: Jay, How did you get the bearing off the end of th emotor shaft?
Yeah, sorry guys. I didn't mention it earlier in my post but I used a wirebrush to get the majority of the rust off of it. On the stubborn parts I used a little pic set that I bought for $6.00 a wile back. The rust came off eventually, but it took me a good 8-10 minutes cleaning and I found the deeper I got into the rust, the bigger chucks started coming off. It wasn't too hard.
Is other then me having trouble seeing the pictures. I can't see anything posted from MONTYPICS here at work.
-------------------- 89 Raider - V6, Automatic, rear LSD, A/C Retrofit, Cruise Control Retrofit.
Ayala: Pronounciation - Eye All Ahh!
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
|
Followed the info in your article to fix the pump in my 95 SR. Basically the same setup, except the pump is inside the passender side wheel well. Pain in the ass to get to, but basically the same part. Works fine now. Thanks!
|
Jay Ayala
Body Damage is Cool
Reged: 07/15/02
Posts: 1217
Loc: Hillsboro, OR.
|
|
You know, this topic was originally posted over a year ago. I'm glad that the fix worked for you, and it's kind of nice to get that kind of acknoledgement. Especially when it wasn't even expected. I'm glad you fixed it. I'm glad that someone else successfully tried this.
So how long did the job take you? Apparently you had to remove a lot of stuff to get to it or something?
Anyway, thanks, I'll talk to you again sometime. Jay
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
|
Jay,
I also used your fix a little while ago, and submitted an article on the differences between your write up and doing it on a 95SR. I should have said thanks at the time, but I did put a a big credit in my article for you inspiring me to do this job - and save a stack of money .
I know Phil is real busy at the moment, but I am hoping this article, when it is posted, will complement your original. 
Cheers
|