I expect it's pretty much the same for a gen one but I'm not 100% sure. Also torque values may differ so check the FSM (factory service manual) for your model to be sure...

Unfortunately didn't break out the digicam since this was the first time I did this on my own but here's the page from the FSM which will help you understand the procedure..

PARTS REQUIRED
4 bearings and 4 races I purchased at Kragen/O'Rielly Auto Parts. I bought their mid range brand and neither their budget nor their premium brand.
CV boots but I did not attempt to install them.

Consumables
Bearing Grease, 1 tub
Brake cleaner, 1-2 cans
Dish washing soap.
Nitrile gloves (several pairs).

Tools Required
I never did compile the tools I used when we did this, nor would I be able to recall exactly the sizes of the wrenches so having a full set with the common mitsu sizes be helpful, but other than the Chevy hub wrench with the 4 ground off nubs & snap ring pliers nothing special was required.

Modified Chevy Hub Wrench (4 of 6 nubs ground off)
3/8" socket drive & associated sockets
1/2" socket drive & associated sockets
1/2" socket drive torque wrench
2-3' of bailing wire (to hang brake caliper out of the way)
Wire cutters (for said bailing wire)
Flathead screw drivers (med/large)
Philips head screw drivers (med/large)

PRELIMINARY STEPS
Loosened lug nuts just enough to break them free
Raised the front end and put it on jack stands.
Removed the front tires.
Removed the from brake caliper by unscrewing the two bolts attaching it to the hub and hung it from the upper A-arm using some wire.

MAIN REMOVAL STEPS
Removed the small hub caps using a large flathead screwdriver to pry them up.

Removed the axle snap ring using snap ring pliers and a small flathead screwdriver.

Removed the six bolts holding the hub cover and removed the cover plate from the hub.

Using a LARGE phillips screw driver (small or medium will strip out the screw head), I removed the two Phillips screws holding the ring with a dozen holes in it and removed the ring.

Using my new mitsu hub tool (a modified chevy hub wrench socket with 4 of the 6 lugs cut off with a cutting wheel) I removed the hub nut to expose the outer bearing.

Next I removed the hub assembly from the car and set it on the workbench with the outer bearing facing up and removed it being careful with the old grease making sure it didn't get everywhere.

I then turned over the hub and using a flat head screwdriver carefully pried up the old inner bearing dust seal and then removed the inner bearing.

Next I cleaned the old grease out of the hub. Steaming hot water and dish soap with a stiff bristle brush worked great. I cleaned it thoroughly until absolutely no grease remained then I dried the hub assy. off with an LP air spray nozzle.

Now when you look inside it you'll see a bearing race on each side. You'll also see 3 indentations equally spaced in the shoulder of the hub where you have just enough room to put a 1/4" dia. round steel punch to hammer out the sides of the bearing races.

We did just that using a punch and a regular hammer (not a small sledge). It was pretty easy since it was on the bench and because we were using a regular hammer there was little risk of damaging the hub or your hand.

Next we rinsed the hub assay again in case any errant steel flakes came off and to be extra safe we inspected the hub assy. once more to ensure it was absolutely clean on the inside.

INSTALLING A NEW BEARING
Using a bench grinder, we took one of the OLD races and carefully ground down the outer edge by about ~1/16-3/32" so we could use it to install the new races.

Next we carefully placed the new race (make sure it's clean and your working on a clean surface) 'flat' inside the hub making sure the thick side was on the inside.

Using the newly grounded down old race, and a block of 6" 2x4 scrap pine we carefully hammered the new race in checking after every few blows that it was going in straight and also double checking the old race we were using wasn't getting hung up on anything. You will need to use one of the other old races to get enough height to be able to hammer the new race in. Also be extra careful that you drive it in straight and even.

Repeat for the other race on the other side of the hub.

Next liberally coat the inner and outer races with a quality bearing grease designed for hub bearings. To help the bearings last make absolutely sure no dirt gets I side once you apply the new grease.

At any point in this part of the process you will also need to pack your new bearings with the new wheel bearing grease. Make sure it's fully packed with grease without any air pockets inside. Set the bearings aside in a clean spot until you install them.

Take the first bearing and install it on the inner side of the hub and using a large socket or the special socket for the inner hub nut, tap in a new inner bearing seal until it's nearly flush.

Now turn over the hub so you can install the outer bearing.

Double check using sufficient light that there is no dirt in the newly applied grease and insert the bearing into the hub so that it mates up with the outer bearing race. I put a liberal amount of wheel bearing grease inside the hub in the space between the 2 wheel bearings. I didn't fully pack it or anything but it was also far from dry.

At this point we put the hub assy onto the front axle being carful that the new outer bearing didn't fall out in the process. Then I reinstalled the flat nut and using my special 2 prong socket just until I was confident it wouldn't fall out.

Next I reinspected everything double checking that nothing was forgotten or left insufficiently lubed.

TORQUING THE HUB NUT
Finally I used a torque wrench to carefully tighten the flat 2 hole nut to 100ft-lbs. The manual says 120 but I honestly couldn't get it that tight while holding the wrench with the special socket against the nut while turning it. It kept on slipping off. Perhaps if the 2 pins on the socket fit the holes in the nut exactly it's easier but 100 was the max I could do with my setup.

I then backed the nut off until it was at 0 ft-lbs. Next I re-torqued it to 18ft-lbs and then backed it off 30-40 degrees and reinstalled the ring with a dozen holes screwing it back in place.

Then I reattached the hub cover bolting it in place with just 2 bolts. I put a wheel on securely using just 3 lug nuts so I could check the hub play. I grabbed the top and bottom of the tire and being careful not to mistake tire deflection for play moved the top of the tire out while mocking the bottom in and vice versa. I initially was too tight.

I removed everything until I got to the step where w tightened the nut with the 2 prong socket. I re-tightened it this time just a 'scrunch' less. Re-attached it all, put the wheel back on and rechecked the play. This time we found a just slightly perceivable amount of hub play.

I again removed the wheel, made sure I put all the other hub cover bolts back on (torqued to 40ft-lbs.), the hub cap on, and the brake caliper on bolts torqued to 65 ft-lbs., etc.

I wish I took pics but sorry, i wasn't interested in eating dirty bearing grease on my camera.