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Suspension install on 3rd gen 4Runner (96-02)

Front install:

My front setup includes OME 881 heavy duty coil springs, Cornfed 2" aluminum spacers, and Bilstein heavy duty shocks.

First thing you should do is spray all the bolts with some PB blaster. This stuff works wonders on stuck and rusted bolts. Just spray it and let it sit for a few minutes. Makes life easier.

Then raise the vehicle up and support it on jack stands. Make sure to lift it high enough that you can droop the lower a-arm assembly down far enough that it doesn't hit the ground. Then remove the wheels.

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Retrofitting a Factory Toyota Elocker

The Toyota electric locker was an easy choice for me. I could pick one up for $400 used from a junkyard and make the controller for a few bucks. If the power is lost on the elocker, it will still be locked, and can be manually unlocked at any time.

In order to install the elocker, several modifications have to be made to the axle housing. These modifications are explained in great detail on several other websites, so I'm not going to go into great detail. Read these web pages and then continue reading this.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/locker/

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Rebuilding Aisin Manual Hubs

When I first got my 4Runner, I had to lock/unlock the hubs with pliers because it was too difficult to turn by hand.  I figured a hub rebuild was in order.  There are several excellent write ups on the internet for Toyota Aisin hubs.  Here are some links:

Pirate4x4.com

4x4Wire.com

Off-Road.com

After following procedures from the above links, my hub dial now turns freely with ease.  When I disassembled my hubs, they were bone dry and there was lots of surface rust.  I cleaned everything up and applied a light coat of grease.  Here is what they looked like

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staff_user

Replacing Alternator Brushes

By: Adam Fertig. 10/2003

If you have a early model Toyota 4Runner or pickup (same parts work for 3vze and 5vze) and the charge and brake lights on the dash light up at the same time, there is a good chance that your alternator will soon need replacement. This is exactly what happened to me. The brake light first came on for a day or two. I checked all of the brake components and could find no problems. Then all of the sudden the charge light and brake light lit up at the same time. This was puzzling since the battery read 13 volts while running. After a few days I encountered a major problem. On my way home from work, the CD player quit working, and my dash lights went dim. I looked at the volt meter in the dash, which was at the half way point. I began to put the turn signal on to get into the other lane, and the voltage dropped below half. Next the motor cut out, and the headlights went dim. This was a sure sign of a bad alternator. Had the battery been the culprit, the problem would not have been likely surface while the vehicle was running.

 

Fortunately there is a low cost alternative to a new alternator. All that is likely to be needed is a new set of alternator brushes for $10-$20! You can find these brushes at most major auto parts stores, or directly from the dealer using part number 27370-35060. The part from Toyota is a complete brush set, including the bracket that holds the brushes. The parts store piece consists of only the two metal brushes, with a long wire attached to each. The brushes have copper leads attached to them that runs though the middle of a spring, and then goes out the back of the brush holder, and is soldered in place. The Toyota part requires no soldering, as it is a drop in unit. The parts store piece requires removing the old brushes, routing the copper wire though the spring and out the back of the holder, and soldering it back into place. Save yourself the trouble and order the Toyota part as soon as your charge light comes on. Retail is $23 for the genuine Toyota part and $9 for the parts store piece.

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Starter Contact Repair

By: Adam Fertig. February, 2003.

A few months ago I began having starter problems with my 1988 Toyota 4Runner and occasionally I would only hear a "click" coming from the engine bay when the ignition key was turned. Usually it would do this once or twice and then start. The problem began to get worse, sometimes taking 15-20 clicks before it would start, but it always started. One day it would not start at all, and I was fairly confident the problem was with the starter contacts. A "starter repair kit" from the dealer provided the replacement parts needed. So now all that was left to do is pull the starter and replace the worn out starter contacts."

Tools needed for repair:

  • Ratchet
  • 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 8mm sockets.
  • Flat head and Phillips head screwdrivers.
  • Long ratchet extension. The one that's about a foot and a half long.
The process:

Before getting started, for safety reasons you should disconnect the positive battery terminal.

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