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IFS Driveshaft CV Modification for Increased Angle


 

Procedure

The tools I used for this project are an angle grinder, a die grinder with a carbide burr, a small sledge hammer, a flat-head screwdriver, a sturdy vise, some small washers, and a small pick or piece of wire and a magnet in case I end up needing to fish out needle roller bearings.If all you plan to do is get the joint apart to clearance it, the only u-joint caps you need to remove are the ones in the center section of the joint (which I'll call the "H" from here on out).The basic method I use to remove u-joints is the same as used in this article. It's fast and effective. Reading the article will help you understand how I disassemble this CV joint.

1. Start by removing the grease zerks and c-clips from the u-joint caps you plan on taking out. Use a flat head screwdriver to dig into the grime and to pry and hammer the clips off.

2. Support the flange end of the CV on top of the jaws of the vise. Pound on the "H" with the sledge hammer. A few good whacks will bring the cap up. Flip the joint over and do the same thing to the cap on the opposite side. Hold the joint at a certain angle to get the cap to be able to be pounded out as far as possible, however this still wont be far enough to get ahold of the caps to get them out.

3. At this point, you should be able to move the joint cross back and forth between the two caps. If any of the needle roller bearings have fallen out of place, use a pick or some wire and a magnet to get them all out. If you don't, they will be ruined when you try to pound the caps the rest of the way out, and then you will need a new u-joint. The same goes if you lose any of them, so be very careful if you plan to re-use the joint (Hint- pumping some new grease into the joints prior to disassembly may help keep the bearings in place).

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Suspension install on 3rd gen 4Runner (96-02)


Front install:

My front setup includes OME 881 heavy duty coil springs, Cornfed 2" aluminum spacers, and Bilstein heavy duty shocks.

First thing you should do is spray all the bolts with some PB blaster. This stuff works wonders on stuck and rusted bolts. Just spray it and let it sit for a few minutes. Makes life easier.

Then raise the vehicle up and support it on jack stands. Make sure to lift it high enough that you can droop the lower a-arm assembly down far enough that it doesn't hit the ground. Then remove the wheels.

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Retrofitting a Factory Toyota Elocker


The Toyota electric locker was an easy choice for me. I could pick one up for $400 used from a junkyard and make the controller for a few bucks. If the power is lost on the elocker, it will still be locked, and can be manually unlocked at any time.

In order to install the elocker, several modifications have to be made to the axle housing. These modifications are explained in great detail on several other websites, so I'm not going to go into great detail. Read these web pages and then continue reading this.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/locker/

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Rebuilding Aisin Manual Hubs


When I first got my 4Runner, I had to lock/unlock the hubs with pliers because it was too difficult to turn by hand.  I figured a hub rebuild was in order.  There are several excellent write ups on the internet for Toyota Aisin hubs.  Here are some links:

Pirate4x4.com

4x4Wire.com

Off-Road.com

After following procedures from the above links, my hub dial now turns freely with ease.  When I disassembled my hubs, they were bone dry and there was lots of surface rust.  I cleaned everything up and applied a light coat of grease.  Here is what they looked like

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Replacing Alternator Brushes


By: Adam Fertig. 10/2003

If you have a early model Toyota 4Runner or pickup (same parts work for 3vze and 5vze) and the charge and brake lights on the dash light up at the same time, there is a good chance that your alternator will soon need replacement. This is exactly what happened to me. The brake light first came on for a day or two. I checked all of the brake components and could find no problems. Then all of the sudden the charge light and brake light lit up at the same time. This was puzzling since the battery read 13 volts while running. After a few days I encountered a major problem. On my way home from work, the CD player quit working, and my dash lights went dim. I looked at the volt meter in the dash, which was at the half way point. I began to put the turn signal on to get into the other lane, and the voltage dropped below half. Next the motor cut out, and the headlights went dim. This was a sure sign of a bad alternator. Had the battery been the culprit, the problem would not have been likely surface while the vehicle was running.

 

Fortunately there is a low cost alternative to a new alternator. All that is likely to be needed is a new set of alternator brushes for $10-$20! You can find these brushes at most major auto parts stores, or directly from the dealer using part number 27370-35060. The part from Toyota is a complete brush set, including the bracket that holds the brushes. The parts store piece consists of only the two metal brushes, with a long wire attached to each. The brushes have copper leads attached to them that runs though the middle of a spring, and then goes out the back of the brush holder, and is soldered in place. The Toyota part requires no soldering, as it is a drop in unit. The parts store piece requires removing the old brushes, routing the copper wire though the spring and out the back of the holder, and soldering it back into place. Save yourself the trouble and order the Toyota part as soon as your charge light comes on. Retail is $23 for the genuine Toyota part and $9 for the parts store piece.

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