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John Stewart

Toyota Exhaust Manifold Cracking - Important Updated Information


IMPORTANT UPDATE (Apr 30, 2008)

To the end of the LC Engineering 3RZ header review (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/reviews/lce_header/), add:

UPDATE 4/30/2008:

"Our part number for the 3RZ header has changed on that header. It is no longer PN 14-1731, it is now PN 1041054."

The corrected part number provided by:
Scott Kelly
Marketing Dept.
LC Engineering"

============================================================================

To the end of the LC Engineering turbo header review (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/turboheader/), please add:

UPDATE 4/30/2008:

"In response to this review and other customer feedback, we have re-designed this header several times since this review was first published, and we have eliminated the problems that were present in the early designs, like the poor welds and the wastegate location/design.

The current design and build quality of this header are much improved over the initial release. If you could update your site with that information that would be great."

Scott Kelly
Marketing Dept.
LC Engineering"
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Andrew Zook

Converting FJ-40 front drums to disk with minitruck parts


 

I chose to use Toyota pickup (minitruck) parts to swap onto the front axle to replace the original drum brakes.

 

'81 through '85 Minitruck Parts list (Basically everything from the knuckle out):

  • Steering knuckle housing
  • Spindle
  • Wheel hub/bearings
  • Steering arms
  • Brake backing plate
  • Kingpin bearings
  • Knuckle seal kit
  • Inner axle seal
  • Birfield joint
  • Locking hub
  • Nuts, Bolts, Washers, Cone washers, wheel studs
  • Calipers and pads from a V6 minitruck
  • (optional) Master cylinder from V6
  • (optional) Brake booster

 

Other parts:

 

Special tools needed:

  • Angle grinder
  • Toyota SST for setting knuckle preload
  • Torque wrench
  • Brake line flare tool (for installing proportioning valve

 

 

Procedure:

    1. Drain the oil in the front axle, jack the truck up, put the axle on jack stands, and remove the wheels.
    2. Remove the old parts. Cut the brake line and remove the tie rod and then remove the face of the locking hub (or drive plate) and remove the snap ring on the axle shaft.
    3. The easiest way to get everything apart is to loosen the nuts on the steering arm and bottom plates which should allow you to pull the entire old knuckle/brake/wheel hub assembly as one piece.
    4. Next, clean up the end of the housing using shop towels and brake cleaner and remove the inner axle seal (rides around the axle shaft at the end of the housing). You may also want to take a wire wheel to the outside of the "ball" to remove any rust.

    5. Next, because we are using birfields from a minitruck, we must grind on the housing to get the larger/stronger birfield to fit. You will need to grind a little off of the top and bottom directly to the outside of the kingpin hole. Test fit the birfield periodically to check your progress. Keep in mind that you need to go about 0.040" over to compensate for how much the ball compresses when the knuckle is torqued down.

  1. Drive out the top and bottom kingpin bearing races with a brass punch. Install the new races.
  2. Calculate knuckle shim thickness and set bearing preload using Toyota SST.
  3. Install knuckle and torque to spec. Check knuckle bearing preload with fish scale. Install wiper seals on back of knuckle. Install inner axle seal
  4. Install spindle, hub/rotor assembly.
  5. Install locking hub and caliper.
  6. I chose to do away with the backing plate for the rotor along with the little brake line bracket with the short section of hard line. To remove the backing plate you must keep the inside portion of it to keep the spacing of the components correct.


  7. I used Napa #38878 for my flexible brake lines. I probably wouldn't do it the same way again. I would keep the short piece of hard line from the
    caliper and the bracket on the backing plate so that the brake line is actually "locked" from turning in the caliper. My brake line setup is commonly used without problems, but it seems a little hoaky because of this.
  8. Install the proportioning valve on the line that goes to the rear brakes. You will need to get the fittings and flare the tubing to install it. I chose to install it right next to / under the booster. I bought a short section of already flared tubing with fittings at AutoZone so that I would only have to flare one end.

  9. Wheel selection is important with the V6 calipers. You will need a wheel that has nothing protruding out the back (such as an aluminum wheel, or a wagon wheel without a lip stamped out the back).

 

 

Optional: V6 master and minitruck booster

I chose to use a booster that I had laying around. It is from an '89 4 cylinder 4runner. The master cylinder is from a '95 4runner with a V6. Everything bolted right up and took only minor adjustment to get correct. The brake lines even ended up in the right place on the MC without bending the lines!

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John Stewart

Toyota Tech: Regearing the Land Cruiser Electric Locker

Once I made the decision to swap a solid front axle onto my 2001 Tacoma, I knew I wanted a selectable locker. I've been running an ARB air locker in the IFS front axle for three years without a single strength or reliability issue. But for this project I wanted something with a little more 'yota in it. I chose the high pinion electric locker from the front of a full size FZJ80 Land Cruiser. After checking the classified listings on various message boards I found I could buy a new unit for roughly 30% more than a used one. Unfortunately these came from the factory with 4.10 ratio gears, and that just wouldn't be adequate for the tire size I expect to run after the axle swap. Since I was already running 4.88 gears in the rear, I decided to use the same ratio for the front diff rather than changing the rear also. I'm very happy with the driveability I have with the current tires and gears, so only time will tell if the smarter decision would have been to go with a 5.29 ratio!

When I asked around to find out who could install the ring and pinion for me, two people recommended Ken "Zuk" Francisco just from his reputation, even though neither one had their gears set up by him. I took a look at the write-ups on his website and could see that he has done many installs, learned some handy tricks of the trade, and understands the process very well. It's interesting that Zuk does this as a part time/side business, yet recently in the span of one week, he had five differentials to setup. That sounds like a bit more than part time to me!

Here are some great pictures and text provided by Zuk showing helpful tips on how to setup gears in the high pinion electric locker.  I hope you find the photos and text both interesting and helpful.

Read more about Toyota Tech: Regearing the Land Cruiser Electric Locker on 4x4Wire Archives.

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John Stewart

Understanding OBDII Engine Systems and Fuel Mixture Control

Tech: Understanding OBDII Engine Systems and Fuel Mixture Control

When the Check Engine Light comes on due to the fuel mixture related error codes P0171 and P0172, or your 3rd generation Toyota with either the 3.4L V-6 or 2.7L 4 cylinder engine is just not running like it should, the oxygen sensor and the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) are common suspect items. They do work closely together in performing their function, but without additional information on exactly how they do their job, it can be confusing to determine which might be at fault. Either sensor is too expensive to do a trial and error replacement to determine which might be causing a problem. This article will examine the role these sensors play, along with the Main Engine Control Unit to maintain proper fuel/air mixture control.

Read more of Tech: Understanding OBDII Engine Systems and Fuel Mixture Control on 4x4Wire Archives

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John Stewart

Replacing Toyota AUTO Hubs


Aisin Manual Hub

In this article I will explain to you how each of the Toyota hubs works and what each one looks like. Hopefully this will help to end the confusion about the different types of Toyota hubs that have existed over the years. I will talk mostly about the troublesome AUTO hubs that some Toyota 4x4s came with between 1984 and 1989, and how to rid yourself of them if you choose to do so.

Toyota has always offered manual locking hubs on all of the Toyota has always used Aisin manual hubs. They are the best available hub on the market for your Toyota. Their quality and strength surpasses all aftermarket hubs. Unfortunately, their price also surpasses all aftermarket brands. Buying a 'new' pair of Aisin is out of the question. If you need to replace a hub visit a wreck yard and buy a used Aisin, or get a pair of new aftermarket hubs with a lifetime warranty.

With manual hubs, IF you have both hubs LOCKED, you will be able to shift into 4WD at any safe speed.

Read more about Replacing Toyota AUTO Hubs on 4x4Wire Archives.

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